Paul Smith is back in Japan this week as the headline designer at Rakuten Fashion Week Tokyo. He is showcasing his Fall 2025 men’s and women’s collections, along with promoting his collaboration with Niwaki, which specializes in Japanese gardening tools.
The fashion week, sponsored by the Tokyo-based tech giant Rakuten, will feature Smith’s show on Wednesday night at the Tokyo National Museum. This event is part of Rakuten’s “by R” project, aimed at supporting Japan’s fashion industry.
Although Smith frequently visits Japan for work, he has not staged a show in the country for over a decade, making this appearance highly anticipated.
“We’ll be showing both men’s and women’s collections, with around 40 looks in total, plus the new Barbour collection,” said Smith. He also created an exclusive orchid print for the event, inspired by a photograph taken by his late father.
“Japan’s traditional flower is the chrysanthemum, but you also see a lot of bonsai trees and orchids. They are delicate and minimal, perfectly fitting the Japanese aesthetic,” he shared in an interview just before flying to Tokyo.
The fall men’s collection, which Smith first presented in Paris in January, featured prints inspired by his father’s colorful photographs and his own sketches. These designs appeared on matching shirts and ties. The collection also channeled the effortless glamour of young icons like David Bailey and Terence Donovan, who wore heavy clothing and layers for outdoor fashion shoots.
In addition to these designs, the collection incorporated heritage fabrics given a “dry, scruffy, vintage” feel, achieved by tossing them in a tumble dryer. The collection also included thornproof fabrics, space-dyed wool, and the Prince of Wales check pattern.
Smith is also presenting his women’s collection, which he typically showcases in a showroom, as well as a 23-piece collaboration with Barbour, featuring a Friesian cow print, which will hit stores in October.
Ryo Matsumura, Senior Vice President and Managing Executive Officer at Rakuten Group, called Smith’s participation “a pivotal moment.” He added, “We believe that collaborating with world-class brands is key to elevating Tokyo’s fashion scene internationally. We’re excited to see Paul Smith’s influence continue to resonate globally, carrying Tokyo’s unique style with it. Going forward, Rakuten Fashion is committed to building a stronger partnership with the brand.”
Japan holds a special place for Smith, whose long-time minority investor and licensing partner is Itochu Corp. Smith operates 150 stores in the country, making Japan his largest market outside of the U.K., accounting for 40 percent of his business.
He’s often treated like a celebrity in Japan, with customers appreciating his quirky humor, soft tailoring, and use of vibrant British menswear fabrics.
In a 2020 interview with WWD, Smith explained that his success in Japan stemmed from his full integration into the country, rather than viewing it merely as another place to generate revenue.
“Back in 1983, Japan was a place you never thought you’d visit. Many designers at the time had large egos and high demands, like chauffeur-driven cars and first-class travel. But I was just fascinated by the culture and food,” he recalled. “I didn’t complain about jet lag or long hours. In the Eighties, I went there around 100 or 120 times,” he added.
Smith also reflected on the trust Itochu placed in him when they first partnered in 1984. “They trusted me to open shops and make them successful,” he said. “Itochu never asked me to alter my collections or aesthetic to cater to the Japanese market.”
In addition to the fashion show, Smith plans to visit his Kyoto store and participate in a series of press appointments with Jake Hobson, the founder of Niwaki. Niwaki, a U.K.-based brand with a store in London, offers specialty Japanese gardening tools.
Smith’s collaboration with Niwaki, launched last year, includes a tri-colored leather tool bag, secateurs with leather-wrapped handles featuring the Paul Smith signature stripe, scissors, and a weeding knife.
“It’s a really cool collaboration,” Smith said, noting his shared love with Hobson for “all the wonderful garden tools and beautiful secateurs for trimming bonsai trees and delicate plants and flowers.”
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