As Paris Fashion Week drew to a close, discussions about fashion continued, and once again, ASAP Rocky found himself at the center of the conversation.
Rocky has long been a presence at fashion shows, serving as a kind of guiding star for many, including the writer. His appearances, though sporadic, always provided reassurance, signaling the right direction amidst the whirlwind of events in Milan and Paris.
On Tuesday afternoon, both the writer and Rocky found themselves captivated by the mood-lifting Miu Miu show. The collection was well received by both, with Rocky’s outfit serving as further confirmation of his appreciation. He sported a chocolate brown fleece and a curved-collar button-up, fully embodying the Miu Miu look. His attention, however, soon shifted to the snakeskin sneakers that had just graced the runway.
Miu Miu introduced men’s wear only in recent years, and the male guests at the show—dressed in corporate blue shirts and dusty tan work jackets—served as evidence that the brand’s venture into men’s fashion was a wise one for Mrs. Prada’s pet project.
The collection offered a number of promising pieces for men. A Joseph Beuys-style felted suit stood out as a versatile option for daily wear, while a cigar brown leather blazer exhibited a worn-in fade that would be highly sought after in vintage stores. Additionally, a sandy shearling-lined jacket was reminiscent of this season’s popular REI-style zip-up. A note of caution: Miu Miu, while appearing egalitarian, is not known for its affordability. The fleece from the current season, for example, is likely priced at around ten times that of a new Patagonia coat.
Mrs. Prada’s vision for the collection was clear in her show notes: “We really wanted to create an elegance with nothing — through the everyday, through direct manipulations of simple pieces.” The simplicity of the designs, paired with the boxy shapes and nubby textures, reflected the thought and care that Mrs. Prada had put into considering the Miu Miu man—a consideration that was often missing in many other men’s collections at Paris Fashion Week.
Too many of the men’s looks across various shows seemed like afterthoughts, with little deeper consideration from the designers, and by extension, the wearers. While women were challenged with daring pieces like bedazzled chaps and tiered tulle skirts, men were offered forgettable overcoats that could easily be found at retailers like Theory.
This, however, was not the case across the board. Jonathan Anderson, despite rumors of his departure from Loewe, continued to craft thoughtful and intriguing pieces for his male clientele. Loewe’s felted gray suit, for example, gave off a pajama-like ease, and hiking boots featured an exaggerated, mallet-smushed toe—a quirky touch that made a lasting impression.
Balenciaga’s creative director, Demna, had perhaps the most to say about men’s fashion, as his collection began with a personal experiment to create a suit he would want to wear.
Last Halloween, Demna recalled, he chose to wear the “worst thing” possible: a suit. His visit to an unnamed bespoke tailor resulted in a suit that he found unbearable. “The pants were too tight,” he said. “They were too cropped. I couldn’t move. I felt like an idiot.”
Though his Halloween experiment was short-lived, the idea of a reliable suit lingered, and Demna decided to craft one for himself. He was surprised by how challenging it was to design a perfect suit, remarking, “It’s much easier to put four sleeves, tie two of them, put a color somewhere. The suit is the most difficult. It’s so hard to get that golden ratio.”
The collection began with a series of perfectly cut salaryman suits, followed by pieces that felt grounded in real-world wearability. Puffer jackets resembled those worn by motorbike couriers, a camel coat appeared intentionally worn-in with chipped buttons, and there were simple white button-ups that could easily pass HR scrutiny. Even the bluejeans were so light they almost appeared white.
“I want most of the things I do to be wearable and desired by someone,” Demna said, emphasizing his commitment to creating functional, desirable clothing.
At the show’s backstage, Demna, dressed in a single-breasted black suit and a black shirt, became his own best fit model. The conservative but considered outfit mirrored the thoughtful nature of his collection, showcasing him at his best.
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