At Paris Fashion Week, men were seen wearing heels, from pumps and slouchy boots on the Vivienne Westwood runway to the chunky loafers rapper and actor Jaden Smith wore as a guest at Louis Vuitton. While this may appear to be a progressive trend, there was a time when heels were once the norm for men.
Women’s association with high-heeled shoes dates back to the 17th century when they became a staple in the wardrobes of the affluent for their ability to make feet appear smaller and more delicate. Before this period, heels were exclusively worn by men and were considered a symbol of virility and high social standing.
By the 1970s and ‘80s, despite glam rock’s attempts to normalize high heels on stage, men who sought to add height often did so secretly, using inserts hidden (sometimes poorly) inside their dress shoes.
Today, exceptions in fashion shows and on red carpets are often seen as challenges to gender norms. These include fashion designer Rick Owens’ clear-heeled ‘Kiss’ platform boots, actor Jared Leto’s preference for disco-style white or gold heels, and musician Prince’s extensive collection of embellished and hand-painted booties. There are still limitations, though: when actor Billy Porter released a capsule collection of gender-inclusive heels with Jimmy Choo in 2021, it attracted attention in a market with only a few brands offering extended sizing.
In a world where taller height is often seen as an attractive feature, leading some men to embellish their height on dating apps or even undergo painful leg-lengthening surgeries, the question arises: Why aren’t heels embraced more widely by all genders?
Elizabeth Semmelhack, senior curator of the Bata Shoe Museum in Toronto, which holds the largest footwear collection in the world, with pieces dating back 4,500 years, points to the Enlightenment of the 17th and 18th centuries, which radically changed ideas about humanity. During this period, philosophers found common ground among men of different socioeconomic classes but established a widening gender divide. Men were viewed as active, while women were seen as decorative.
Semmelhack’s research traces the origin of heels to 10th-century Western Asia, though she believes they may be much older. Heels were initially designed to help horse riders keep their shoes in their stirrups. From the beginning, heels signified status, but it took centuries for them to make their way to Europe through trade with Persia in the 16th century.
“The concept of the heel was so connected to these ideas of equestrianism and, in the European mind, masculinity, so that’s how it ends up being translated into Western footwear,” Semmelhack explained.
In the 17th century, wealthy European men wore two types of heels: stacked leather, seen on practical riding boots, and leather-covered heels for more extravagant court styles. The latter eventually became associated with women’s fashion, appearing in stilettos and kitten heels, while stacked leather remained popular in cowboy boots and dress shoes. At the time, higher heels were a sign of higher status for men, as they were impractical for long walks or physical labor.
One of the most famous depictions of ornate heels for men is seen in Hyacinthe Rigaud’s 1701 state portrait of Louis XIV. The French king is portrayed in elaborate robes, white stockings, and dainty white shoes with red heels. Known as “Les talons rouges” in French, red heels were a royal symbol of status, limited to a select group of nobles. Other artworks from the period show noblewomen wearing petticoats that obscured their shoes, while men extended their legs to display their prized footwear. Centuries later, French designer Christian Louboutin’s red-lacquered soles were marketed with a similarly luxurious effect.
Despite the attributes associated with male height today, the popularity of heels was not linked to height during this time, according to Semmelhack. Height and masculinity had not yet become associated, but heels were worn by women due to “a new standard of female beauty, which was small feet,” Semmelhack explained. Heels were used to lift women’s feet up under their skirts to make them appear as small as possible, with the heel’s placement pushing the foot forward to leave very small footprints behind.
Once leather-covered heels disappeared from men’s fashion, they did not return. By the late 18th century, a shift in Western masculine dress saw men abandon vibrant colors, luxurious fabrics, varying silhouettes, and excessive adornment — a change later referred to as the “Great Male Renunciation” by British psychologist John Carl Flügel. As men moved toward practical, less ornate clothing, their shoes also became more sensible, while women’s heels became imbued with complex social and political meanings with every added or removed half-inch. This dynamic has been explored by drag artists and queer ballroom culture, where heels enhance drama and performance.
“Once heels are completely feminized, they become an icon of female irrationality. Likewise, they become this icon of female desirability,” Semmelhack said. “And so, you end up with a double-edged sword.”
Men, too, face double standards: despite the positive associations with taller height, the average man worldwide is shorter than 5’8″. Some public figures and world leaders maintain the illusion of height with shoe lifts, step-platforms, and strategically arranged crowds, going to great lengths for a little extra height.
While heels might offer a more elegant solution, the taboo surrounding them persists. Many of the heeled styles considered daring for men are not actually feminine at all, Semmelhack noted.
“People talk about it as super gender-bending,” she said. “But is it really, or is it just a reclamation of historic male fashions from the past?”
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