At Paris Fashion Week, femininity took center stage in all its power and elegance. The Fall-Winter 2025/26 womenswear collections embodied a spirit of liberation and strength, blending striking aesthetics with refined craftsmanship. This vision was brought to life by Chitose Abe for Sacai, Marine Serre, and Gabriela Hearst—three visionary designers crafting fashion for women who are both commanding and captivating.
Sacai: Sculptural Silhouettes and Innovative Layering
Sacai unveiled a breathtaking collection that seamlessly blended contrasting materials into a harmonious whole. Commanding, sculptural silhouettes were at the forefront, with fringed tweed shawls transforming from capes to tailored jackets, waistcoats, or paneled skirts.
Oversized black and ruby sequins adorned layered trousers and strappy tops, while sheer red tulle peeked through dark suits, adding an element of surprise. The collection’s spiral motif carried through in wool poncho dresses, where cascading layers of knit fabric created dynamic movement. Quilted jackets, shearling coats, and bomber jackets were reinvented with diagonal layering, adding depth and volume.
Fur played a significant role, appearing on leather jackets, mini dresses, and muff-like gloves, even transforming ballet flats into floating, fuzzy statements. Other standout details included double-layered jackets and scarf-like suits featuring prints reminiscent of a midnight sky. The collection showcased Sacai’s ingenious approach to design, creating singular pieces that merge functionality with artistry.
Marine Serre: Power, Sensuality, and Cinematic Inspiration
Marine Serre’s bold and cinematic collection was staged at the Monnaie de Paris, where the black-and-white tiled floors, grand staircases, and deep red velvet curtains evoked the mysterious allure of Twin Peaks’ ‘Red Room.’ The collection paid homage to femme-fatale icons, from David Lynch heroines to Irma Vep, the masked thief from silent films.
The show opened with head-to-toe leather looks, including second-skin catsuits, sculptural jackets, and dresses repurposed from biker gear. Reinforced shoulders, padded flanks, and cone-shaped busts gave the designs an armor-like strength.
“At 33, I’ve entered a new chapter as a designer and for my brand,” Serre shared. “There’s a sense of maturity, and I wanted to redefine the architecture of clothing with inspiration from the powerful silhouettes of the 1950s and 1980s.”
Moving away from her signature crescent moon patchwork, Serre refined her emblem into subtle details—gold-rimmed buttons, delicate jewelry, and form-fitting gowns with crescent-collar closures.
This season, she introduced sharply tailored business suits, oversized black coats, and nautical-inspired mini dresses, along with slinky slip dresses in satin and nylon edged in lace. “The idea is to sell dreams that feel realistic—dresses people can actually buy and wear,” Serre emphasized.
The collection closed with spectacular upcycled creations: a dramatic coat from reclaimed fox pelts, layered trench coats, a metallic mini dress crafted from vintage watch bracelets, and a voluminous ballgown sculpted from a quilted bedspread. Each piece embodied Serre’s transformative approach to fashion.
Gabriela Hearst: Strong, Wearable Elegance with Mythological Inspiration
Gabriela Hearst continued her empowering vision of femininity with designs that were bold yet effortlessly wearable. Back on the Paris runways since last September, the Uruguayan-born designer—renowned for her commitment to sustainable luxury—drew a full house for a collection exuding quiet confidence.
Once again, she looked to mythology for inspiration, incorporating neolithic goddess motifs into select designs. Her collection celebrated real women, enhancing their individuality while instilling a sense of poise and strength.
Winter ensembles featured monochromatic palettes and rich textures, with wool, fur, and leather playing a central role. Plush coats and cocooning silhouettes were crafted from silk-blend fibers, while long-haired cashmere skirts radiated opulence.
Strips of mink were reimagined into intarsia patterns across coats and jackets, while supple nappa leather pieces showcased meticulous construction, adding a modern sophistication to the collection.
Through their innovative designs, Sacai, Marine Serre, and Gabriela Hearst delivered collections that redefine modern femininity. Whether through sculptural silhouettes, cinematic drama, or sustainable luxury, these designers continue to shape a future where fashion empowers, transforms, and inspires.
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