In a season marked by global uncertainty, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons delivered a collection that confronted contemporary unease while hinting at resilience, blending minimalist rigor with subtle nods to nostalgia. The designers, who have collaborated since 2020, framed their Spring/Summer 2025 offering as a reflection on “clothing that matters today,” with Simons emphasizing a forward-looking lens even amid existential challenges.
“To work in this difficult moment is really tough,” Prada told reporters backstage, likening the collection’s mood to a “black dress — very much today.” The reference was not to the classic little black dress (LBD), but to a reimagined silhouette in inky herringbone wool, rendered in oversized, sack-like forms with raw edges and minimalist hardware. Some styles featured exaggerated buttons or delicate fabric bows, evoking mid-century optimism, while others were stripped to elemental tubes, loosely cinched at the bust.
Simons elaborated on the collection’s philosophy, criticizing fashion’s historical conflation of femininity with restrictive, “sculptural” designs. Instead, the duo prioritized ease, allowing the body to move freely within unstructured shapes. “Beauty should not be imposed,” he stated. The palette, dominated by blacks and grays, was punctuated by muted pastels and tactile textures, including a crinkled silk-jersey hybrid that appeared both modern and timeless.
Industry observers noted the collection’s tension between austerity and hope, a theme mirrored in its presentation: models walked a stark, monochromatic set, their hair slicked back, as the house’s signature triangle logo glowed intermittently in the background. Accessories, such as geometric leather bags and platform sandals with exaggerated soles, added a subversive edge.
The collaboration between Prada, 74, and Simons, 54, continues to redefine the house’s identity, balancing heritage codes with experimentalism. While critics praised their ability to distill societal unrest into wearable art, some questioned whether the collection’s somber tone would resonate with consumers seeking escapism.
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