London Fashion Week (LFW) kicks off this Thursday with a more condensed schedule following the last-minute cancellations and format changes by several brands. This shift reflects the broader challenges within the fashion industry, from emerging labels to multinational corporations, all grappling with the impact of the luxury slowdown.
Many brands are reevaluating the necessity of showcasing each season. Some independent designers have found success in presenting collections once a year, such as Conner Ives, who returns this season, along with Chopova Lowena and Knwls, who both show in September.
A few designers originally included on the schedule—Marques Almeida, Ancuta Sarca, and Patrick McDowell—have withdrawn from the event. McDowell, for instance, opted for a more intimate affair, hosting a dinner at Aqua Nueva rooftop in collaboration with mycelium innovation company Ecovative. “We wanted to step away from the traditional format and instead create a space for meaningful conversations and shared experiences,” McDowell said. Other designers, such as 16Arlington, Aaron Esh, and Feben, will host dinner events instead of runway shows, while Johanna Parv has opted for a digital show.
Despite some absences, LFW still boasts exciting names. Pauline Dujancourt, a finalist for the 2024 LVMH Prize, will debut her second collection, alongside Yaku Stapleton, a recipient of the Paul Smith Foundation’s residency. SS Daley, a late addition to the schedule, will present both womenswear and menswear on Friday. Designer Steven Stokey-Daley, after launching womenswear last season, received investment from Harry Styles in January 2024 and is eager to expand the brand.
Vogue’s deputy director, Laura Ingham, highlights SS Daley’s growth and the creative brilliance of designers like Duro Olowu and Marco Capaldo. “This season’s LFW is embracing storytelling beyond just the runway with a mix of shows, presentations, and smaller curated events, reinforcing its cultural role,” she said.
With a nine-day gap between New York Fashion Week and LFW this season, Ingham notes the shift in energy. “You can feel the gear shift as we move into the weekend,” she added. “LFW brings excitement, anticipation, and unexpected collections, creating the most brilliant creative moments.”
This season also marks Caroline Rush’s final turn as CEO of the British Fashion Council (BFC). She reflects on the industry’s evolution: “We know the challenges ahead, but I believe creativity thrives in difficult times. Our designers are resilient, and LFW will continue to be innovative and thrilling.”
LFW will also see a few exciting debuts. Bloke, a genderless brand founded by Faith Oluwajimi, will present its first collection on Sunday. Keburia, a Georgian brand led by George Keburia, will showcase its London debut on Monday. “London is a hub for ‘young’ designers, and I’m excited to finally overcome the insecurity of debuting here,” Keburia said.
Additionally, Jawara Alleyne, who previously showed off-schedule after graduating from Fashion East, will officially debut on the LFW schedule on Saturday. “The brand has evolved, and it felt like the right moment to align with the official calendar,” Alleyne explained. His collection, Construction, explores garment-making through deconstruction.
Several returning designers will also make their mark this season, including Dilara Findikoglu, Ashish, Carlota Barrera, Bobby Abley, and Conner Ives. Ives’ show at The Savoy’s Beaufort Bar, inspired by the 1979 musical All That Jazz, reflects themes of personal struggle and resilience. “I wanted to offer an escape from collective anguish,” Ives shared.
As part of a citywide celebration, the BFC will open the LFW Shop from February 22–24. Curated by Ida Petersson and Lewis Bloyce, the shop will feature iconic LFW brands like 16Arlington, Ahluwalia, and Bianca Saunders. Another major sponsor, Inditex-owned Pull & Bear, will launch limited-edition capsule collections with designers Chet Lo and Johanna Parv, available at Selfridges and online.
Looking ahead, the BFC will implement sustainability criteria for Newgen brands starting in 2026, piloting the framework this year. “Sustainability is crucial for the future of fashion, and we aim to set a new global standard for sustainable innovation,” Rush said.
LFW may be smaller this season, but its cultural significance remains as strong as ever. With a mix of established names and emerging talents, the event promises a fresh, dynamic perspective on the season ahead.
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