Milan Fashion Week’s AW25 men’s schedule felt a bit quieter than usual, with major names like Fendi and Gucci saving their collections for co-ed shows next month. But Prada’s show today brought an exciting burst of energy, as it always does. Here’s a rundown of the memorable moments.
It’s been a while since Prada’s show at the Fondazione saw such a dramatic set-up. The last time guests ascended stairs at this venue was during the AW20 show pre-pandemic, when they overlooked a massive red void with a horse designed by Rem Koolhaas at its center. This time, the brand filled every available corner, creating an elaborate maze of scaffolded platforms that spread across three floors. The stark steel of the scaffolding was juxtaposed with a thick, floral-patterned carpet—brightly retro and undeniably Prada, evoking the vibe of a late-’80s living room.
Harris Dickinson, recently seen in the A24 film Babygirl, made an appearance at the Prada show, marking his rise as the house’s newest ambassador. Dickinson, who was recently featured in Prada’s SS25 campaign, joined a front-row lineup that also included fellow Prada stars Damson Idris and Troye Sivan. Sivan, backstage, shared who he would choose to play him in a potential biopic.
Prada’s SS25 women’s show, staged last September, emphasized eclectic, mix-and-match dressing, a theme that carried over to the men’s show. Designers Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, both holding champagne glasses backstage, spoke about how they find joy in spontaneity and enjoy seeing people embrace their individuality—a philosophy that has been at the core of Prada for years.
The steel scaffolding seemed to symbolize the process of building a wardrobe, with the garments on display acting as the building blocks. However, the real fun, the designers hinted, begins when you mix those essentials with personal items accumulated over time—family hand-me-downs, thrifted treasures, or quirky trinkets that hold sentimental value.
Whereas last season’s Prada men’s collection felt more polished and precise, this time, things were more eclectic. Satin pyjama trousers were paired—some might say “clashed”—with slouchy checked robes, while car coats were worn over bare chests, and skinny trousers with pointed boots created a hybrid cowboy/winklepicker style that ran through the collection.
Chunky nylon parkas were combined with classic button-downs and fine-gauge knitted sweaters, offering a blend of casual and formal styles. The color palette remained subdued with browns, beiges, navy, and grey, punctuated by bold pops of Quality Street purple, tomato red, and a nostalgic floral print that called back to 1970s soft furnishings.
Accessories added to the show’s playful, unexpected feel, with small basketball charms hanging from zips and bags, and dangling from the models’ ears. This playful approach underlined the idea that fashion is most exciting when it draws from the unorthodox and is based on instinct rather than rigid ideas of style. This approach aligns with the growing focus on personal style over the trend-driven cycles of the past few years.
One notable trend was the use of faux fur, with Prada officially abandoning real fur in 2020. This season, various faux furs—ranging from cowhide to giraffe print—appeared across lapels, sweater-vest panels, and the interiors of large, chunky parkas. This growing trend, seen in multiple collections, promises to be a prominent feature as the AW25 season progresses. For now, Prada has set the stage.
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