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Highlights and Anticipations for Paris Men’s Week Autumn/Winter 2025

by Demos

This season’s Paris Men’s Week is packed with exciting moments, from Willy Chavarria’s first on-schedule show to Peter Copping’s debut as artistic director at Lanvin, and Jacquemus’s return to the calendar. Also in the lineup is the highly anticipated Saint Laurent men’s show, which will take place during couture week.

The event runs from 21 to 26 January, featuring 37 shows and 30 presentations, a slight reduction from 2024’s 41 shows and 32 presentations. Major names such as Louis Vuitton, Dior Men’s, Rick Owens, Hermès, and Kenzo will be presenting, while Loewe is skipping this week to stage a co-ed show in March instead.

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Fashion gossip is already circulating, especially following the recent exit of Proenza Schouler designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez from the label they founded. The duo is rumored to be replacing Jonathan Anderson at Loewe, with Hed Mayner filling in at Loewe’s 25 January show at noon. Mayner, who won the LVMH Karl Lagerfeld Prize in 2019, will take the reins for this presentation.

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Chavarria, making his Paris debut on 24 January, is already inspiring conversation. “We have a tough road ahead of us in 2025,” Chavarria said during an Instagram Live. “But I believe it’s important for all of us to work together to bring light to the world.” Fashion consultant Julie Gilhart praised Chavarria, saying he’s “not afraid to speak about his beliefs” amidst political and environmental challenges.

The event also takes place in the aftermath of the devastating Los Angeles wildfires. Several LA-based labels will press on with their Paris events, including Fear of God, which will host an event on 22 January to present a collaboration, and Amiri’s Paris show on 23 January. Doni Nahmias will also present his collection in a showroom near Place Vendôme from 24 to 30 January. Despite challenges caused by evacuations and air quality issues, most Hollywood celebrities scheduled to attend Paris Men’s Week are expected to follow through with their plans.

In the midst of a luxury downturn, many experts believe menswear is generally more resilient than womenswear. “Men tend to be motivated by necessity as much as inspiration,” says Mario Ortelli, managing director of Ortelli and Co. “In uncertain times, they still value their wardrobe investments and personal presentation.” Richard Johnson of Mytheresa also notes that men’s fashion is less volatile, making it a safer investment during economic challenges.

For the Paris shows, Gilhart is particularly excited about Chavarria and Copping’s debuts, as well as newcomers like 3.Paradis, Hed Mayner, KidSuper, and Kartik Research from India. Several co-ed shows will also take place, including Chavarria’s genderless presentation and Copping’s debut for Lanvin, scheduled for the final day of Paris Men’s Week and the eve of couture at 8pm.

Jacquemus, who had been presenting off-schedule since 2020, returns to the official Paris calendar on 26 January. His show, titled ‘La Croisière,’ will be filmed entirely on iPhones at a Paris apartment previously owned by architect Auguste Perret. Despite the small setting, Jacquemus promises an intimate experience for viewers.

Saint Laurent’s creative director, Anthony Vaccarello, will present his men’s collection during couture week on 28 January. The house, under new CEO Cédric Charbit, typically shows menswear in January in Paris and abroad in June.

Returning brands include Paul Smith, Officine Générale, and Egonlab. SS Daley, originally on the schedule, will no longer show due to “unforeseen circumstances.” Jeanne Friot, whose collection is inspired by Joan of Arc, will present on 23 January at 10 am. She’s also enjoying a boost in sales, thanks to her role designing the Joan of Arc costume for the Paris 2024 opening ceremony.

Also on 23 January, Dries Van Noten will showcase his men’s collection, designed by the studio and styled by new creative director Julian Klausner. At 7 pm on 25 January, Charles Jeffrey Loverboy will host a presentation at Dover Street Market Paris, while Patou will present off-schedule on 26 January at 6 pm.

Exciting events around Paris Men’s Week include Zara’s fashion week party, where British designer Samuel Ross will debut a new line on 6 February. There will also be a Stone Island boutique opening on Rue Saint-Honoré and a preview of a Martin Margiela sale from 1988 to 1994, taking place on 27 January.

A major highlight of this week is the opening of the ‘Louvre Couture’ exhibition. Curator Olivier Gabet has paired contemporary fashion designs with decorative arts, showcasing around 70 silhouettes and 30 accessories from designers like Anderson, Maria Grazia Chiuri, and Matthieu Blazy. The exhibition opens on 24 January and runs until 21 July, with a fundraising gala dinner on 4 March supporting the museum’s activities. This event has even been compared to the Met Gala in Paris.

As for the collections themselves, Mytheresa’s Johnson sums it up: “The direction remains sophisticated, understated, and focused on longevity.”

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