A new Portland-based apparel startup is blending environmental sustainability with heritage by creating clothing from sustainably-grown cotton. The brand, named Nazeerah, is the brainchild of co-founder Emily Mikhaiel, whose family has deep ties to Egypt’s cotton farming industry.
Mikhaiel, originally from California, first visited Egypt at age 10, where she learned about her grandmother, Nazeerah, a seamstress for her local village, and her grandfather, who helped farmers sell their cotton to nearby factories. Inspired by her family’s agricultural legacy and armed with a juris doctor in environmental law, Mikhaiel was motivated to start a clothing brand that not only embraced minimalist, high-quality designs but also supported sustainable cotton farming practices in Egypt.
Mikhaiel shared, “Most of the cotton grown (in Egypt) is grown conventionally with a lot of water, a lot of pesticides and herbicides, and is just not good for the workers, the people wearing the clothing, or the planet.”
Egypt’s cotton industry once flourished thanks to the annual flooding of the Nile River, which naturally fertilized the land. However, the construction of the Aswan High Dam in 1970 disrupted the natural flood cycle, pushing farmers to rely on synthetic fertilizers and pesticides. This shift has contributed to the decline of Egypt’s once-prolific cotton industry, especially as cheaper cotton from countries like China replaced it.
“The cotton in the area that my father and my family’s from is no longer there. That’s been switched out with sugar cane and other crops because the cotton coming from China is so much cheaper,” Mikhaiel explained.
To support sustainable farming, Nazeerah collaborates with family-run farms that use biodynamic and regenerative practices. These farmers rely on natural compost for fertilization and non-invasive methods for pest control, helping preserve the health of the soil and surrounding ecosystem.
The brand sources its materials from the Middle East and manufactures its clothes in Egypt. Mikhaiel emphasized that Nazeerah is currently focusing on online sales but has plans to expand into retail spaces across the U.S. in the future.
Co-founder Mahmoud El-Gazzarr, based in Cairo, brings valuable insight into Egypt’s cotton industry. With years of experience working with major brands like Wrangler, Calvin Klein, and Tommy Hilfiger, El-Gazzarr maintains strong relationships with local farmers and manufacturers. Mikhaiel noted, “Not many brands actually get to connect with the people that are growing their fibers, that’s really rare… we have direct connection to the mills, the manufacturers, even the dyers.”
Nazeerah has faced challenges, especially with the political unrest in Israel and Gaza last fall, which led to shipping delays and increased costs for the cotton fibers Mikhaiel was importing. Despite these obstacles, Mikhaiel is committed to honoring her grandmother’s legacy and supporting Egypt’s cotton industry.
“I love Egypt, I see the potential in Egypt and I want to support the workers there. Sustainability is an emerging concept there still, and by being there, really pushing the needle on that, we can make a difference,” Mikhaiel said. “By staying in Egypt, we’re making much more of an impact on the industry as a whole, rather than taking an easy route and producing someplace else.”
Nazeerah’s first collection, which includes items like $248 blazers, $48 t-shirts, and $175 kimono-style denim jackets, is designed to be 98% biodegradable. While the brand currently focuses on women’s apparel, Mikhaiel plans to expand into menswear and aims for a fully biodegradable product line in the future.
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