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Sebago Aims to Expand Beyond Boat Shoes and Penny Loafers to Embrace the Preppy Look

by Demos

Owning iconic footwear like penny loafers and boat shoes was just the beginning for Sebago. The brand, now owned by BasicNet, is returning to Pitti Uomo after a few years’ absence, eager to introduce its 2.0 strategy, which includes a stronger push into ready-to-wear apparel.

Having firmly established its reputation in the footwear world, with its popular boat shoes driving significant sales, Sebago is now looking to broaden its horizons. When BasicNet acquired Sebago from Wolverine Worldwide in 2017 for $14.25 million, nearly 90% of its sales in the spring and summer seasons came from boat shoes.

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“We wanted to move Sebago away from being solely associated with the ‘brown shoe’ category tied to its New England roots,” explained Marco Tamponi, global brand manager and creative director. “Since acquiring the brand, we’ve adopted a lifestyle-focused strategy.”

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Tamponi also shared how it took time to define Sebago’s stylistic direction. “We had a ‘eureka’ moment while developing the fall 2025 collection,” he added.

At the Pitti Uomo showcase, Sebago will present about 24 full looks, displayed in a dedicated booth at the fair’s central courtyard. Tamponi described the collection as an expression of the brand’s ambition to expand beyond its footwear roots and attract a wider audience.

While Sebago has dabbled in apparel since the 1980s through limited capsule collections, the new line—focused on Americana and the preppy aesthetic—is attracting growing attention. “We’ve avoided vintage or replica styles, even though I personally collect vintage pieces, because Sebago is rooted in modernity,” said Tamponi.

The brand’s new collection reflects its vision of wardrobe-building essentials, such as Shetland crewnecks, button-down shirts, unlined three-button blazers, and crisp chinos. “We start with iconic menswear pieces that are part of the language of men’s fashion, giving consumers room to mix, reinterpret, and stretch these classics,” said Tamponi. “Our goal is to offer timeless items and establish these pieces as new icons.”

In addition to its signature penny loafers, Sebago’s fall collection includes outdoorsy versions of the boat shoe and new chukka boots, as well as a focused range of ready-to-wear clothing. The collection draws on influences from Ivy League fashion, British countryside chic, and preppy style—think casual corduroy suits, padded vests, field jackets in houndstooth, and overshirts.

Currently, ready-to-wear makes up 25 to 30 percent of Sebago’s overall business, with the strongest sales coming from its own retail stores. “Once customers enter the Sebago world, they are more inclined to explore other categories,” Tamponi noted. “Our current goal is to carve out a niche in the wholesale market, which is filled with brands offering similar styles.”

Tamponi acknowledged that ready-to-wear is a highly competitive space, perhaps even more so than footwear, because it’s easier for brands to enter. “We’ve started testing our ready-to-wear offerings in our flagship stores, building loyal customer relationships, launching loyalty programs, and we’ve seen recurring apparel purchases,” he said.

Sebago operates 13 flagship stores in Europe and South Africa, with a new location set to open on London’s King’s Road in 2025. While business in the U.S. has been quieter, the brand is exploring coastal locations in the Hamptons and New England, as well as potential expansion in Japan.

“We want consumers to see Sebago as a go-to brand for any occasion,” said Tamponi. “Ready-to-wear will help Sebago break new barriers in terms of revenue, reach, and style—things that footwear alone couldn’t accomplish.”

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