The close of 2024 saw a wave of exciting fashion announcements: John Galliano is set to depart from Maison Margiela after a decade, Matthieu Blazy is confirmed as Chanel’s new creative director, and Louise Trotter, formerly of Carven, will take over Bottega Veneta from Blazy. Prior to these, Sarah Burton was appointed as creative director at Givenchy, Haider Ackermann will head up Tom Ford, and Kim Jones is stepping down as artistic director of Fendi’s womenswear and couture collections, though his successor has not yet been revealed. Additionally, Lanvin, Dries Van Noten, and Celine have welcomed new creative leads (Peter Copping, Julian Klausner, and Michael Rider, respectively). Meanwhile, speculation continues about other potential changes in fashion’s ongoing game of musical chairs.
Thus, 2025 arrives with fashion in a state of flux. With so many appointments and exits taking place in late 2024, the impact of this new wave of designers – or the departures of others – has yet to be seen on the runway. This uncertainty sets the stage for a thrilling season ahead, as fashion reinvents itself in potentially groundbreaking ways. As always, it will be fascinating to see which of these changes will resonate with both critics and consumers. Stay tuned.
Men’s Fashion Week A/W 2025 kicks off on 14 January 2025 with Pitti Uomo in Florence, continuing through Milan and Paris, offering early signs of the industry’s shifts. Here’s what we know so far about the upcoming fashion month.
Pitti Uomo (14–16 January 2025)
This season, Pitti Uomo takes place a week later than usual, giving designers a bit more time after the hectic post-Christmas period. The 107th edition of the historic Florentine menswear fair will be held at the 14th-century Fortezza da Basso, featuring over 700 brands. This year’s theme, “Fire,” acknowledges the “generative power of this primal element,” according to the event’s organizers. The fair promises a unique blend of heritage and innovation, divided into five key areas: ‘Fantastic Classic,’ ‘Futuro Maschile,’ ‘Dynamic Attitude,’ ‘Superstyling,’ and ‘I Go Out.’ Raffaello Napoleone, CEO of Pitti Immagine, explains, “Fashion is going through a complex phase of transition, and here at Pitti Immagine, we can’t just stand by and watch. We’ve pushed harder than ever to mix product categories, boldly blending fashion and lifestyle.” A significant change this year is the focus on running attire, which the organizers see as a rising category in menswear.
As always, Pitti Uomo’s guest designers are expected to steal the spotlight. Past guests have included Raf Simons, Craig Green, Grace Wales Bonner, Martine Rose, and JW Anderson, among others. This time, Japan-based designer Satoshi Kuwata will showcase his label, Setchu. Kuwata, who won the LVMH Prize in 2023, is known for reimagining classic menswear garments with a sophisticated yet avant-garde approach to pattern cutting and form. His debut show will be one of the highlights. Another guest, MM6, the diffusion line of Maison Margiela, currently run by a collective of designers, will also make its appearance, showing on 15 and 16 January.
Milan Fashion Week Men’s (17–21 January 2025)
Milan Fashion Week Men’s will be a bit quieter this season, notably due to the absence of JW Anderson, which began showing in Milan in 2022, and Gucci, which is returning to a co-ed presentation with Sabato De Sarno likely to present both men’s and women’s collections together in February. Fendi will also skip this season, with reports suggesting the brand will host a major centenary show in February. Martine Rose, who showed in Milan for the first time last season, will not be returning.
Despite these absences, Milan remains a hotspot for some of the most anticipated shows of the season. Prada, under co-creative directors Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, is always a defining moment of the season. Other highly awaited shows include Dolce & Gabbana, Emporio Armani, Zegna, and Giorgio Armani. Dunhill will return to Milan after its debut last season, and British designer Saul Nash will swap London for Milan in what promises to be an exciting new chapter for his growing label.
Paris Fashion Week Men’s (21–26 January 2025)
Paris will once again serve as the grand finale of menswear month, offering the most action-packed schedule, starting with Pharrell Williams’ latest Louis Vuitton menswear show on 21 January. Expect a star-studded front row and a spectacular show. Another major event will be Kim Jones’ latest collection for Dior Men, following his departure from Fendi’s womenswear and couture collections to focus solely on Dior’s menswear. “I look forward to continuing to witness his creativity at Dior,” said Bernard Arnault, chairman and CEO of LVMH, of Jones’ ongoing work.
Other highlights will include Rick Owens’ show (likely held once again at the Palais de Tokyo after a brief change of venue last year), Issey Miyake’s IM Men collection, and Comme des Garçons Homme Plus. New arrivals to the Paris schedule include Willy Chavarria, who is moving his show from New York to Paris on 24 January, SS Daley, debuting in Paris after showing in London, and Jacquemus, who will present a dedicated menswear show. The week will close with British designer Peter Copping’s debut at Lanvin, where he will present both his men’s and womenswear collections on 26 January.
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