The Hidden Costs of Fashion: A Look at Sustainable Solutions

Demos

The price tag on clothing often does not reflect its true cost, especially considering the significant impact the fashion industry has on carbon emissions and waste. In the East of England, businesses and charities are promoting solutions during Sustainable Fashion Week, focusing on eco-friendly practices like fully recyclable school uniforms, non-toxic dyes, and the benefits of repairing garments.

Innovative Dyeing Techniques

Cambridge-based scientists are transforming the dyeing process. Their company, Colorifix, works with clients like H&M and Pangaia to create colors without using harmful chemicals. Based in Norwich, Colorifix bioengineers microbes to produce dyes.

CEO Orr Yarkoni explained, “We discover colors in nature and borrow the information on how they are made.” By inserting this information into microbes, which are then fed sugar and nitrogen, the microbes create the desired pigments.

This method reduces the need for water, electricity, and harmful pollutants compared to traditional dyeing processes. Yarkoni emphasized the environmental harm caused by conventional dyes, which often involve heating toxic chemicals. “Once these chemicals enter the water system, they are impossible to remove,” he added.

Yarkoni was inspired to find a better way after witnessing pollution in Kathmandu’s rivers. He co-founded Colorifix in 2016, aiming to offer an alternative. The company supplies dyed fabric to mills in countries like Italy, Portugal, Brazil, and India. Yarkoni is hopeful that as production scales up, their dyes will match or even undercut traditional prices, helping existing factories transition from chemical to biological processes. “We want to show that sustainability can coexist with job security,” he said.

Recycling School Uniforms

One key principle of sustainable fashion is ensuring clothing is used and repurposed rather than discarded. What happens to garments that are too damaged to wear? Many are incinerated, but Project Re
seeks to change that with the help of David Luke, a school uniform manufacturer.

In Kettering, a Salvation Army plant is already recycling used textiles into new polyester yarn in collaboration with Project Plan B. David Luke’s latest blazer has been designed for complete recyclability, contributing to the concept of a “circular economy.”

Tim Cross, CEO of Project Plan B and the Circular Textiles Foundation, noted, “We now have the technology to recycle David Luke’s blazers without separating the components, streamlining the recycling process.” One of these blazers is even on display at London’s Design Museum, alongside pieces from well-known designers like Stella McCartney.

Majonne Frost, from the Salvation Army Trading Company, highlighted the potential for businesses to produce sustainable uniforms and fashion lines. “This is a chance for companies to commit to reducing their environmental impact, and David Luke is leading the way,” she said.

Repairing Footwear

Andy Smith, who founded Shoesmiths in St Albans at 21, is dedicated to keeping shoes out of landfills. He remarked, “Many people don’t realize how many types of shoes can be repaired.” Smith has adapted his services to fit changing footwear trends.

He recalls a time when stilettos were in high demand, but now, younger customers are returning for trainer repairs. “Shoes can be expensive, so getting them repaired is often a better option,” he explained, emphasizing both economic and environmental benefits.

According to charity Shoe Aid, over two million shoes are thrown away each week, making repairs an important sustainability effort. Smith recalls how, two decades ago, his shop was busy with customers needing repairs for their stilettos. He mentioned the efficiency of his staff in managing repairs, often involving multiple steps for a single shoe.

For those seeking easily repairable footwear, he recommends good-quality leather soles and separate heels. While he acknowledges that shoe repair may seem old-fashioned, he believes younger generations are starting to embrace it as an eco-friendly choice.

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