Chemena Kamali’s second collection for Chloé delivered a radiant portrayal of femininity, merging the house’s traditional elegance with a fresh and sensual flair. Set in tones of soft apricots, blushes, and whites, her Spring collection highlighted a vision of summer focused on renewal and escape. The show captured Chloé’s free-spirited essence with a sense of nostalgia and optimism for the future.
Kamali’s Celebration of Freedom
“There’s a liberating expression of total freedom,” Kamali said about her collection, which featured silk gowns, lingerie-inspired crop tops, and daring designs. The influence of Chloé’s 1970s-era Karl Lagerfeld was visible, particularly in exaggerated shoulders and vibrant pieces like a loose-fitting blue coat. Kamali emphasized Chloé’s enduring identity, stating, “Chloé is not a passing moment; it’s an eternal state of mind.”
Layering was a key aspect of the show, but it was executed in an airy, intuitive way. Sheer fabrics and sun-worn lace seamlessly blended with ribbed jerseys, creating looks that felt weightless and spontaneous. A trapeze-shaped silk gown stood out, embodying Kamali’s ability to honor Chloé’s romantic heritage while infusing it with modern sensibilities. “The mood is light, weightless, sensual, and joyful,” Kamali explained, a theme that defined the entire collection.
With this collection, Kamali cemented her position as the right designer to guide Chloé, skillfully balancing nostalgia with forward-thinking fashion.
Mugler’s Bold Approach with Cadwallader
At Mugler, Casey Cadwallader delivered a striking show, filled with sharp architectural designs and innovative theatricality. Hair styled in harsh fringes set the tone for bold pieces featuring curving lapels and latticed silk skirts in vibrant yellows. The show celebrated femininity, with designs inspired by seashells and sculpted bustiers. Cadwallader’s work aimed to refresh Mugler’s energy, embracing bold aesthetics while moving away from the extravagance of the brand’s past.
Oversized tubular arms, webbed skirt-coats, and transparent trench coats contributed to the bold, boundary-pushing atmosphere, showcasing Cadwallader’s commitment to innovation.
Naomi Campbell Receives French Honor Amid Charity Scandal
British supermodel Naomi Campbell was honored with the title of knight in the Order of Arts and Letters by the French culture ministry for her contributions to French culture. However, the award comes amid controversy in the UK, where Campbell has been barred from serving as a charity trustee for five years. This follows a three-year investigation into her charity, “Fashion for Relief,” which found issues with financial mismanagement.
The investigation revealed that only 8.5% of the charity’s expenses went to grants between 2016 and 2022. The inquiry also found that funds were used for Campbell’s luxury hotel stays and personal expenses during charity events. Campbell, when asked about the findings, expressed concern and indicated her legal team is investigating. She stated, “I was not in control of my charity; I put the control in the hands of a legal employer.”
Despite the controversy, Campbell’s recognition in France highlights her ongoing influence in the fashion and cultural world.
Rick Owens Showcases Gothic Elegance
Rick Owens’ show at the Palais de Tokyo was a darkly enchanting spectacle, with gothic elements and avant-garde aesthetics blending seamlessly. Models walked through thick smoke, wearing asymmetrical leather boots and translucent heels. Owens’ signature angular shoulders were prominent throughout the collection, which combined dark romanticism with his characteristic avant-garde flair.
Cloaked figures emerged in oversized black hoods and flowing tulle cloaks, creating a mystical atmosphere. Owens’ use of humble fabrics and intricate craftsmanship highlighted his ability to merge high fashion with a gothic narrative. His designs continue to challenge conventional beauty standards, blending reverence with rebellion.
While his style may be too avant-garde for some, Owens remains a powerful and provocative force in fashion, reaffirming his role as one of Paris’s most authentic and independent designers.
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