Discipline, endurance, and thousands of hours of work are essential not only in sports but also in haute couture. Just before Paris hosted the world’s top athletes, the city showcased its own fashion games. Here’s a look at the highlights from this season’s couture shows.
Schiaparelli
With the Petit Palais still under renovation, Schiaparelli had to relocate its show to the Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild’s basement. This venue change marked a shift from Daniel Roseberry’s previous, more sensational designs. For autumn 2024, the collection, titled “The Phoenix,” embraced a style reminiscent of Elsa Schiaparelli’s 1950s work. It featured a dramatic cape with wings and feathers and a blush-pink duchess satin dress with contrasting shoes, echoing Schiaparelli’s surreal shoe hat designed with Salvador Dalí. Highlights included a lace-up bustier dress with circular organza petals and a striking fur jacket made of triple organza spikes. This collection was a sophisticated nod to the house’s avant-garde roots, showcasing truly museum-worthy pieces.
Thom Browne
Thom Browne’s second-ever couture show, held at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, drew on the city’s upcoming Olympic Games. The show began with a tug of war, featuring a model in a gold laurel wreath. Despite the usual theatrics, Browne deviated from his signature grayscale, opting instead for off-white muslin. The collection showcased 48 looks crafted from this lightweight cotton, which was transformed through embroidery, sculpting, and layering. Notable pieces included a muslin jacket dress embroidered with red bugle beads and a gold-beaded jacket and pencil skirt that required over 11,000 hours of work by 42 artisans. The show concluded with models on a podium, symbolizing Browne’s dedication to craftsmanship.
Balenciaga
Demna Gvasalia’s fourth couture show for Balenciaga merged street style with high fashion. Reimagining Cristóbal Balenciaga’s classic elements like three-quarter-length sleeves and cocoon silhouettes, Demna infused them with streetwear and goth influences. T-shirts were given couture treatment with black scuba satin lining, while a vintage Metallica tee involved 70 hours of hand painting. Upcycled materials featured prominently, such as a gown made from distressed jersey and a dress fashioned from plastic bags. The finale included a black nylon wedding gown, stapled and sculptured just before the show, commenting on the value of clothing. This show sparked significant debate within the fashion world.
Stephane Rolland
Stephane Rolland’s autumn 2024 collection, “To You, Paris,” drew inspiration from the nighttime images of French-German photographer Brassaï. Set in the Salle Pleyel and accompanied by Jacques Prévert’s “Cet Amour,” the show featured monochromatic looks and monumental silhouettes crafted from wool, satin, and gazar. Noteworthy pieces included a bubble jacket and a nude tulle gown with a gazar chest sculpture. Sequins and feathers added a touch of glamour. The show’s closing piece, a giant hooded bridal gown adorned with organza petals, left a lasting impression.
Tamara Ralph Couture
Tamara Ralph’s autumn 2024 collection, “Lost in Love,” showcased a romantic vision of Paris. The historic Collège des Bernardins hosted the show, which featured elegant black-and-white houndstooth check and flowing gowns in ruby red and blush pink. The finale bridal gown, made of double satin with crystal embroidery and a 3D rose appliqué train, was particularly captivating. The collection balanced feminine charm with harder elements like a chainmail-style gown, reflecting Ralph’s personal life as she welcomed a second child.
Armani Prive
At 90, Giorgio Armani continues to impress with his collections. His autumn 2024 haute couture show, “Perle,” highlighted pearls in various forms. The collection featured gold and silver fabrics with a pearlescent sheen and velvet embroidered with beads and crystals. Pearls adorned jackets, gowns, and clutch bags, and a finale jacket and trousers made from Swarovski crystals were especially dazzling. Accompanied by Glenn Miller’s “Moonlight Serenade,” the show exuded timeless elegance.
Robert Wun
Robert Wun’s “Time” collection, celebrating his 10th anniversary, explored the transient nature of beauty. The show began with a black gown mimicking snow, followed by overcoats embellished with butterflies and summer-inspired burn-marked garments. Haunting closing looks included a beaded dress depicting the muscular system and a bridal gown with a cosmic veil. The collection’s dramatic and intricate designs showcased Wun’s unique vision.
Chanel
Despite Virginie Viard’s departure, Chanel’s autumn couture collection, created by the studio team, was a triumph. Held at the Palais Garnier, the show featured classic Chanel elements like tweed suits and pearl buttons. A standout was the 18-year-old supermodel Angelina Kendall in a voluminous taffeta gown with puffy sleeves. The show reaffirmed Chanel’s enduring brand codes.
Nicolas Di Felice for Jean Paul Gaultier Couture
Nicolas Di Felice, the latest guest designer for Jean Paul Gaultier Couture, presented a collection centered around corsets. The show featured draped gowns, body-con dresses, and embroidered corset motifs. The finale, a sheer nude gown, received a standing ovation, but it was a one-time collaboration, marking the end of this season’s guest designer series.
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