After several seasons showcasing her work in London, Irish designer Sinéad O’Dwyer is now bringing her body-positive designs to Copenhagen. This city holds special meaning for O’Dwyer, as her wife, Ottilie, is Danish. “I’ve visited Copenhagen often, including attending shows early in our relationship,” O’Dwyer told Vogue via Zoom ahead of her spring/summer 2025 collection. “It’s such a beautiful city.”
O’Dwyer’s designs, however, are not in line with the classic Scandinavian style. She describes her brand as the opposite of Scandi and laughs at the contrast. Despite this, the Danish fashion scene has changed significantly in recent years. Designer Alectra Rothschild, known for her bold, club-inspired fashion, is a friend of O’Dwyer and will be featured in the upcoming show. The event will also include several members of O’Dwyer’s personal circle, such as her wife, sister Katie, and the mother of casting director Emma Matell.
O’Dwyer’s work may not fit the traditional Scandi mold, but it aligns with Copenhagen Fashion Week’s emphasis on sustainability and inclusivity. This alignment is likely why O’Dwyer was named the 2024 Zalando Visionary Award winner, following the award’s 2023 recipient, London-based Paolina Russo. “This award is unique because it supports independent brands that address structural issues in the industry, such as sustainability and inclusive clothing practices,” O’Dwyer said.
The Zalando Visionary Award provides crucial financial support and mentorship for O’Dwyer, who uses multiple fit models of various sizes rather than a single sample size. “The financial system isn’t set up to support my approach of using multiple sample sizes,” she explained. “I’m working to find a sustainable way to manage this.”
For her debut show in Copenhagen, O’Dwyer drew inspiration from her teenage years spent in North Carolina. “The show has a nostalgic feel,” she said. “It was a time when I first felt I belonged and experienced love for the first time.”
Inclusivity is a key aspect of O’Dwyer’s design philosophy, reflected in her stretchy knits and diverse runway models, including blind activist Lucy Edwards this season. Like previous seasons, an audio experience will be available for blind and low-vision guests, many of whom have been invited through the Danish Institute for the Blind. “I always appreciate our shows because of the wide range of people involved,” O’Dwyer concluded. “It’s important to have a moment where everyone comes together.”
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