Mizen, the fashion label founded by Shunsuke and Chien-Tsu Teranishi, is redefining how Japan’s traditional kimono textile makers are perceived and supported in the global fashion industry. What started as a “project” rather than a conventional fashion brand, Mizen combines high-quality craftsmanship with innovative design to give new life to Japan’s rich textile heritage.
Shunsuke Teranishi, who co-runs Mizen with his wife and business partner, emphasizes that the brand is about more than just design. It’s about telling the story of the production process and celebrating the artisans who craft these fabrics. “It’s like a gathering of friends,” he says from Mizen’s flagship boutique in Tokyo’s Aoyama district. “We want to share the story of the producers behind our pieces with our customers, supporting them in a way that also enriches their lives.”
Shunsuke’s journey into fashion is unorthodox. With a background in architecture from Kyoto University, he worked as a patternmaker for Yohji Yamamoto, followed by stints in Milan under Stefano Pilati at Agnona and later at Hermès as a 3D designer. During his 12 years in Europe, Shunsuke came to appreciate the deep divide between designers and patternmakers in the fashion industry, particularly in Europe where the jobs are separated. It was this realization that sparked his desire to create a new kind of fashion brand, one that would celebrate Japan’s unique textile tradition.
His wife, Chien-Tsu (Molly) Teranishi, who hails from Taiwan, also worked in Milan and Paris for high-end brands like Agnona, Carven, and Shiatzy Chen. The couple’s shared experiences in Europe eventually led them to meet a group of producers from Japan’s traditional kimono textile industry, who were struggling to find their place in what Shunsuke calls the “fashion pyramid.” These encounters, combined with his growing disenchantment with the fashion world, prompted him to take a new direction.
“I wanted to create value that came from Japan rather than simply following trends,” Shunsuke explains. “I realized that neither I nor the textile producers fit into the existing fashion hierarchy, so I decided to create something that honored both.”
The textiles they work with are some of the highest quality in the world, but their narrow width—about a quarter of the width of typical European fabrics—makes them challenging to work with for many designers. While European brands acknowledge the superiority of Japanese textiles, they often find it difficult to adapt them into their designs. But Mizen doesn’t view this as a limitation; instead, they aim to design in a way that supports and enhances these traditional techniques, ultimately benefiting the producers and preserving their crafts.
In 2018, the Teranishis left Europe and returned to Japan to focus on working with a select group of kimono fabric producers. Initially operating under the name Arlnata, the brand was rebranded as Mizen in 2022. Shunsuke and Molly focus on building long-term relationships with producers who share their passion for innovation and collaboration. “We’re interested in supporting producers who want to try something new, not just doing one-off collaborations with big European luxury brands,” says Shunsuke. “We aim for lasting, mutually beneficial relationships.”
The textiles used in Mizen’s collections can take anywhere from three months to a year to create, which means the brand doesn’t follow the typical fashion cycle. Instead of churning out two collections per year, Mizen releases new pieces and collections only when they’re ready. “We announce new pieces when they are ready,” Shunsuke explains. This slower pace mirrors the care and attention to detail that goes into creating each garment.
Mizen’s capes, one of the brand’s signature styles, exemplify this approach. Over time, they have been updated and refined, with each new version made from fabrics that are ready at that moment. A major challenge is combining kimono silks with high-quality knits—two materials that are fundamentally different. The kimono fabrics have no stretch, while knits naturally do, leading to potential puckering. Shunsuke, drawing on his 3D design background, developed a piping technique to join the two fabrics with a flat seam, creating a visually striking yet practical solution.
Bomber jackets, another key piece in Mizen’s collection, are designed using kimono fabrics in a way that creates intentional seaming patterns. The fabrics wrap around the body in vertical and horizontal layers, forming a cohesive and innovative look that emphasizes the uniqueness of the kimono textiles.
Throughout its designs, Mizen uses textiles like lightweight silk ribbons woven in a tweed-like pattern, highly detailed batiks, and fabrics incorporating hand-cut abalone shell strips. These distinctive materials elevate the brand’s collections, which remain both classic and modern. “Mizen represents the intersection of form and material,” says Shunsuke, underlining the brand’s commitment to quality and innovation.
Mizen also takes a unique approach to branding. Each garment features not only the Mizen logo but also the name of the workshop that produced the fabric, ensuring transparency and recognition for the artisans involved in the process. This reinforces their mission to support and elevate the producers behind their fabrics.
Looking ahead, the Teranishis plan to expand their concept further by opening local stores in the regions where Mizen’s textiles are made. These shops will sell not only clothing but also furniture, jewelry, and other regional handicrafts. “Our customers know where the textiles come from, but they don’t have a chance to visit the workshops,” says Molly. “These stores will help bridge the gap between producers and consumers.”
In doing so, Mizen is not just elevating Japan’s kimono textile industry but also creating a new kind of fashion brand—one that values craftsmanship, sustainability, and long-term relationships over fleeting trends.
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