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Pioneers of Modest Fashion Reflect on Their Evolving Journeys

by Demos

Modesty in fashion, once a niche market, has now become a global trend, especially during the holy month of Ramadan. While mainstream fashion brands have recently jumped on the bandwagon, it was Muslim-owned labels and hijab-wearing women who initially elevated modest fashion to the spotlight. Many of the influential figures who contributed to this movement have since shifted their focus, finding ways to blend their love for fashion with deeper missions of inclusivity, spirituality, and social justice. From the UAE to the USA, here’s a look at how five prominent figures from the modest fashion movement have evolved in their careers and what they’re doing now.

Rabia Zargarpur: Empowering the Next Generation

Emirati fashion designer Rabia Zargarpur launched her eponymous label in 2001. Over the years, she has seen her brand grow in the region and beyond, which she finds empowering. “For me, modest fashion is about choice and control,” Zargarpur explains. “It’s about giving women the freedom to express their personal style in a way that feels authentic.” The designer founded the Modest Fashion Academy in 2017 to help foster the next generation of designers and entrepreneurs in the modest fashion industry. Through masterclasses and mentoring, the Academy aims to guide individuals to build ethical and sustainable businesses. Zargarpur’s vision is to see global brands emerge from her program, contributing to the growth of the modest fashion sector.

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Mariah Idrissi: Fashion Meets Film

Dubai-based Mariah Idrissi made history in 2015 when she became the world’s first hijab-wearing model to star in a global campaign for H&M. Reflecting on her groundbreaking role, Idrissi acknowledges how much the narrative around modest fashion has shifted in the last decade. However, she has also become more mindful of the materialistic aspects of the industry. “I haven’t participated in shopping hauls or promoting over-consumption because it contradicts my beliefs around modesty,” she shares. Now, Idrissi is exploring the intersection of fashion and film to help portray Muslim women’s stories in a more meaningful way. She recently produced Britain’s First Mosque, and continues to use her platform to discuss topics like charity work, workplace hijab policies, and the Qur’an.

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Dina Aziz: Beyond Fashion to Reflection

London-based Dina Aziz, a modest fashion influencer, always saw her platform as a space to ignite important conversations about faith and personal growth. “I wanted my content to reflect who I truly am, and I believe that authenticity is what has drawn such inspiring and like-minded people into my journey,” she says. Aziz’s journey took a pivotal turn when she created a Ramadan planner filled with reflections and prompts. The planner’s popularity caught the attention of Penguin Random House, leading to the 2024 release of Ramadan Planner: A Guide to Reflection and Growth During the Holy Month. Aziz finds it humbling to see how her planner has helped people from all walks of life connect and reflect.

Lisa Vogl: A Non-Profit Fashion Brand with a Purpose

In 2018, Lisa Vogl’s Verona Collection became the first modest fashion brand to be sold at Macy’s in the U.S. After launching her label, Vogl turned her focus to humanitarian work, traveling to Jordan to distribute aid to refugees. Her personal journey as a domestic violence survivor has also influenced her work. Vogl left Verona to create a new brand called Zaila, a non-profit fashion company that supports refugee women. With a factory in Istanbul that employs Uyghur refugees, Vogl hopes to extend her work to include Palestinian and Syrian refugees. “I know firsthand the importance of providing opportunities rather than handouts,” Vogl says, as she uses fashion to create a meaningful impact.

Melanie Elturk: Supporting the Modest Fashion Community

As the founder of Haute Hijab, Melanie Elturk has been a key figure in the modest fashion movement in the U.S. The brand, which focuses on high-quality hijabs, has expanded to provide a platform for activism. Elturk, who was once at the forefront of modest fashion, has now shifted her focus to support the Muslim community. “It’s just so commonplace now; it’s a non-issue,” she says, referring to the normalization of hijab. Elturk took a step back from the brand after embarking on a personal healing journey but remains committed to supporting and uplifting the modest fashion community. She believes that while modest fashion has made significant progress, the movement’s next phase will be breaking down the stereotypes that still exist, particularly in the West.

While the modest fashion movement has certainly gained visibility, figures like Elturk emphasize that the work is far from over. The next step is to dismantle the negative stereotypes often associated with visible Muslim women, especially in Western societies. “How can we break down some of the stereotypes that still exist?” Elturk asks. As these trailblazing figures continue to evolve, they remain committed to empowering women through fashion while working toward inclusivity, justice, and authenticity in the global fashion landscape.

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