Zane Li, the 24-year-old fashion designer from Chongqing, China, has launched his first men’s collection, blending minimalist design with a nod to ‘90s sportswear. Growing up in a sprawling metropolis that is now home to over 30 million people, Li’s childhood was far from the futuristic cityscape that we see today. While Chongqing’s modern transit systems, including trains and monorails passing through skyscrapers, have captivated the social media world, Li’s early environment was more traditional. However, his mother, who owned a beauty parlor, always maintained a chic and fashionable style. “She loved fur, she loved a hard shoulder, and she wouldn’t go out without a heel,” Li recalls. Her influence helped him decide to pursue a career in fashion.
Li’s journey took him to New York in 2019 to study at the Fashion Institute of Technology, marking his first trip outside Asia. The designer had long admired American fashion, drawn to the simplicity of Calvin Klein’s sportswear and the sharpness of Helmut Lang’s tailoring, both of which he discovered online and through films. Upon his arrival, he found that ‘90s-inspired dress codes had faded, with athleisure dominating. However, his own brand, Lii—named for the Mandarin pronunciation of his name—debuted last year with a women’s collection inspired by that bygone New York style. For his inaugural collection, Li reimagined iconic American staples like ringer tees and pencil skirts, creatively altering their silhouettes. The collection quickly garnered attention and was picked up by the online retailer Ssense, with actress Greta Lee wearing a white Lii shift dress to the Independent Spirit Awards earlier this year.
Li now ventures into men’s fashion with his debut men’s collection, featuring a curated mix of crisp, functional pieces in vivid hues inspired by ‘90s sportswear and the video collages of artist Christian Marclay. Many of the collection’s silhouettes may look familiar at first glance, but Li injects unexpected twists into the designs. A simple cotton T-shirt with contrasting long sleeves is actually slitted at the back, enabling the wearer to twist the shirt to the side and wear it as a scarf. One piece that looks like two rumpled T-shirts layered together is, in fact, a single garment with its folds sewn in place—a nod to the idea of running errands, only to have your clothes get caught. There’s also a baby blue button-up shirt, available in both cotton and glossy lightweight polyester.
Drawing further inspiration from ‘90s Japanese cinema, particularly the films of Takeshi Kitano, Li’s collection features pieces reminiscent of the yakuza-affiliated bad boy characters who seamlessly blend business suits with colorful activewear. The collection includes zip-up windbreakers in both long and short styles—rosy pink, deep blue, bright orange, muted gray, and sunny yellow—pairing perfectly with tailored items like a full-length double-breasted coat in coniferous green or stark white. But perhaps the standout piece of the collection is a single-breasted jacket with a detachable hood. When not worn, the hood hangs loosely from a single button, transforming into an accessory that offers a utilitarian yet decorative element.
While Li’s designs generally avoid excessive ornamentation, the creative cuts and details allow each garment to feel dynamic and fresh. “Of course, the hood works, but you can also transition it into something else,” Li explains. “It’s a utilitarian decorative element.” The collection, with its balance of modern utility and nostalgic influence, marks a promising next chapter for Li’s evolving fashion vision.
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