Lapel pins have long been considered an accessory of refinement, though they have rarely played a central role in men’s fashion. James Bond, for instance, seldom wore lapel pins, preferring instead the occasional corsage in his buttonhole. In The World Is Not Enough, a Pierce Brosnan-era Bond film, the accessory takes on a lethal twist when a British aristocrat meets an unfortunate fate due to a lapel pin rigged with a transmitter, leading to an explosion. Though fictional, it remains a stylish—albeit dramatic—way to go.
This year’s Oscars red carpet, while far less explosive, showcased an equally bold display of lapel pins and brooches as a defining feature of men’s formal wear. While the event did not break new ground in boundary-pushing attire for men, one noticeable trend emerged: actors across the style spectrum, from those wearing classic Armani tuxedos to those embracing more avant-garde outfits, accessorized their dinner jackets with lapel pins, studs, and brooches.
Colman Domingo made a statement with a Boucheron golden curl, while Adrien Brody opted for an extravagant Elsa Jin feathered fan paired with his Giorgio Armani tuxedo. Meanwhile, Robert Downey Jr. chose a more understated approach with a pair of Tiffany ruby cherries adorning his lapel, and Sebastian Stan incorporated a sparkling Cartier cluster into his ensemble. Across the board, the most stylish men of the evening added a subtle yet striking glint to their attire.
Despite often being overshadowed by the elaborate gowns and dazzling jewelry of leading ladies, these accessories offered a way for men to introduce sparkle into their outfits without fully embracing an over-the-top aesthetic. Lapel pins and brooches have been making steady appearances on red carpets for some time—seen at the BAFTAs and Golden Globes—and they have increasingly found their way into formalwear beyond Hollywood. Men’s fashion retailer Mr Porter has reported a 351 percent increase in searches for lapel pins over the past six months, indicating a shift from sportswear to more refined embellishments.
According to Charles Leung, chief executive of the French jewelry house Chaumet, a lapel pin serves as both a focal point for a navy or black blazer and an easy way to introduce glamour and formality. Beyond style, he emphasizes their role in adding humor, whimsy, and even sparking conversation. Chaumet itself offers delicate gold bee lapel pins, with male customers—often accompanying their partners shopping for high-end jewelry—selecting floral designs as subtle statement pieces.
Men’s jewelry has a deep-rooted history, spanning from the rubies of Henry VIII and the pearls of Indian Maharajas to the opulent diamonds of Louis XVI’s court. More recently, the gold chains of 1970s lounge singers and the pearl necklaces embraced by Gen Z fashion influencers like Harry Styles continue this tradition. Traditionally, aristocratic men would wear little more than a family-crest signet ring, passed down through generations. Lapel pins, however, serve a different purpose. As the final embellishment on a formal outfit, they require a well-structured dinner jacket—preferably black tie—with a satin or grosgrain silk notch lapel. This accessory signals attention to detail and a commitment to refined dressing.
Perfumer Roja Dove, a longtime enthusiast of lapel pins, notes that historically, they served a practical function, often securing cravats or stocks in place rather than existing purely for ornamentation. However, exceptions existed—aristocracy, for example, used decorative pins to signify social status and distinction, a tradition that persists today.
Dove, who has incorporated lapel pins into his wardrobe for years, views them as an extension of personal character, often surprising and captivating those who take notice. He emphasizes that wearing a pin is inherently a social statement, reflecting an individual’s perspectives—consciously or subconsciously—on society. Each of his pins holds sentimental value, particularly one gifted by his life partner, Peter.
For those new to lapel pins, subtlety is key. A small silver pin provides a more traditionally masculine aesthetic compared to a gold alternative, while bronze can lend a vintage, heirloom-like quality to a piece. Brooches, though more dramatic, require careful consideration—not out of concern for appearing overly flamboyant, but for their practicality. Some heavier designs can damage delicate lapel fabrics, as noted by a Dunhill tailor who once advised against fastening an extravagant brooch onto a silk lapel at a recent wedding.
While lapel pins may not carry the perilous intrigue of hidden transmitters, they remain an accessory that demands attention—both for their aesthetic impact and the care required in wearing them well.
Related Topics
- Men Redefining Fashion: The Rise of Jewellery as a Statement of Style and Identity
- New Book Explores Menswear Through a Japanese Fashion Lens
- Grandmother’s 1950s Wedding Dress Restored in 45 Hours
