Jun Takahashi’s UNDERCOVER continues to hold a significant place in the fashion industry, constantly pushing forward with its unique creative vision. After announcing its transition to the Paris Fashion Week womenswear schedule for Fall/Winter 2025, the brand marked its 35th anniversary with a spectacular runway show, blending rich symbolism with innovative designs to honor its past and look toward the future.
Instead of directly paying tribute to its most iconic pieces, the collection drew inspiration from what Takahashi personally considers one of his finest works—the Fall/Winter 2004 collection, But Beautiful…Part Parasitic Part Stuffed. The 2025 collection reinterprets its essence, merging Anne-Valerie Dupond’s inflated soft sculpture art with the signature style of Patti Smith to create a striking stuffed-doll-like visual effect.
The show opened with a pure white long-sleeve gown, illuminated under intense lighting. The oversized sleeves swept the floor, moving rhythmically with the model’s steps, while gold accessories added a touch of brilliance. Soon after, UNDERCOVER introduced its latest collaboration with Champion, featuring fitted crewneck sweatshirts, tapered joggers, and monochrome oversized hoodies, all maintaining the brand’s signature streetwear functionality. The collection also incorporated nature-inspired elements, such as butterfly-print jacket linings and casualwear. Additionally, soft wool coats and patchwork denim continued UNDERCOVER’s signature tailoring, while fringed cotton fabrics infused structured suits with a relaxed feel.
Balancing nostalgia and innovation, the show revived past iconic elements, including exaggerated pointed shoulders and multicolored confetti-patterned jackets. The finale delivered a breathtaking spectacle, featuring two voluminous balloon dresses as the centerpieces. The runway concluded with an angel-and-demon face-off, where models in shimmering evening gowns staged a dramatic visual duel. Finally, a model in an extravagant feathered battle robe made a powerful closing statement, evoking the fierce presence of a predatory bird.
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