Setchu Satoshi made his debut at the 107th edition of Pitti Uomo in Florence, unveiling his first catwalk show at the historic Biblioteca Nazionale Centrale. As the 2023 LVMH Prize recipient, the Japanese designer showcased a cerebral collection featuring origami-inspired tailoring, including caped dresses, geometrically layered shirts, and cardigans with intricate fastening systems that transformed a single piece into multiple silhouettes. The thoughtfulness and refinement of Satoshi’s designs, however, didn’t capture the attention of a particular guest who found his focus elsewhere — on the unconventional outfits of those around him. A guest in gold lamé sneakers with fuzzy pink velcro straps, another in pre-scuffed Golden Goose high-tops, and a middle-aged man with “Fuck” emblazoned on his socks were among the standouts that diverted attention from the catwalk.
The experience led this observer to contemplate the curious intersection of fashion criticism and personal style. He reflected on the contradiction of some of the most respected critics being among the worst-dressed individuals he’d encountered. Was their removed perspective on mainstream trends a key to their insight? The night before, he shared a meal with an accomplished fashion voice from Paris, whose outfit — a snapback with a pineapple print, a mink coat, and heeled winklepickers — puzzled the Florentine influencers at the Guess rave. The critic, however, was quick to dismiss the guest’s own outfit, which featured a children’s T-shirt from a Brussels tat shop, unwashed Sports Direct sweatpants, and Balenciaga Triple S sneakers. The critic’s comment, “I’m sick of Demna,” was followed by a sarcastic remark, “I suppose you’re being subversive,” which prompted the guest to attempt an explanation of the designer’s genius.
Feeling slighted, the guest began soliciting opinions on his shoes, a move that led to a range of reactions — from dismissive “Baby, no” to “You look like you’re going to All Bar One,” and “Please, I’m triggered.” While the initial response may have seemed harsh, the guest felt a sense of liberation in stepping outside what others considered “cool.” At fashion week, where appearance often dictates one’s worth, embracing what’s considered “uncool” or “corny” proved to be an act of rebellion.
Beyond the critiques, the guest remained firm in his belief that the original Balenciaga Triple S — first unveiled in the autumn/winter 2017 collection — was one of the most significant design pieces of the past decade. Despite its controversial reception, including scathing comments from figures like Ralph Rucci, the Triple S helped spawn a genre of “so-wrong-they’re-right” shoes, a trend still ongoing. The guest fondly recalled the excitement of acquiring the sneakers, including a trip to Dover Street Market to have a wealthy acquaintance purchase them. Now, years later, he wore the Triple S sneakers proudly, convinced that they would be understood by those like Miuccia Prada, who championed the high-fashion movement of “ugly chic.”
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