During Milan Fashion Week, Miuccia Prada and co-creative director Raf Simons presented a raw, cinematic menswear collection for Fall-Winter 2025-2026 that pushed the boundaries of fashion. Known for its bold approach, Prada once again went beyond expectations by incorporating primal details, such as shearling accents that appeared almost torn from the animal itself, placed askew on outerwear lapels or patchworked into garments.
“We wanted it to feel warm, human, and instinctive, but also beautifully domestic,” Simons explained backstage, describing the collection as savage, with echoes of primitive cavemen. This rawness was balanced by a sense of comfort and humanity.
The cinematic influence was not tied to any specific film or director, but rather a broader, abstract sense of filmic storytelling. Western-inspired elements appeared throughout the collection, such as scuffed cowboy boots and knitwear resembling a wrangler’s shirt—without veering into the realm of characters or caricatures.
Feminine details were also evident in the collection, inviting men to embrace jewelry like bracelets adorned with mini basketballs or baseballs. Chains with amulets draped over fine knits, and fake fur-lined hoods with floral patterns added a delicate contrast to the rugged undertones.
The silhouettes combined slim-fitting trousers, often in bright rock-and-roll satin, with looser pieces like pajama-style tops and slightly worn-in sweaters. Suits were styled without shirts, reinforcing the designers’ call for instinctive dressing that doesn’t adhere to conventional rules.
One look that captured the essence of the collection featured straight-leg jeans paired with a striped knit top, finished off with floral-printed cowboy boots—a perfect blend of boyish charm and rebellious spirit.
Prada and Simons explained that the collection was intended to offer hope during challenging times, with humanity presented as a form of resistance to oppression. “We must resist with our instinct, humanity, passion, and romance,” Prada said backstage. “Good work is also a form of resistance.”
As for the collection’s tone, Prada emphasized that it needed to be inherently optimistic. “It has to be optimistic by definition and in principle,” she said.
The show’s venue, the Prada Foundation’s Deposito contemporary art space, featured an ever-evolving design, with the runway placed on raised metal scaffolding and the room covered in Art Nouveau carpet. Simons explained that the setup represented contrasts, decoration, and a sense of work in progress.
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