Preview Men officially kicks off the Dutch trade show season. With its new early January date, the fair now even precedes the Florentine Pitti Uomo. “This is the new Modefabriek for menswear,” a sentiment echoed by several visitors and exhibitors, referencing the country’s longstanding biannual fair. After almost five years, Preview Men has firmly carved out its spot, especially during this period of major transformation within the industry.
The Preview trade shows, organized by Cast, are known for their relaxed atmosphere and product focus. The menswear edition is no exception, as many exhibitors consistently highlight. This year, the fair showcases over 170 brands, displaying part of their collections, with several fresh tastemakers also included, drawing in retailers who typically only source in Paris. The inclusion of these brands has led to an expansion of exhibition space, spilling into aisles between showrooms on the first floor. Visitors are greeted by a dozen brands as soon as they step off the escalator.
The route guides attendees past well-established brands like Cast Iron, Lyle & Scott, and Chasin’ before arriving at more sustainable options on the first level. Those unfamiliar with the layout may miss the distinction, as there is no signage like “sustainable area” or use of green colors. Instead, a green leaf icon simply indicates a brand’s sustainable ethos. The fair allows the brands to speak for themselves but places them prominently at the start of the route, ensuring they don’t go unnoticed. In an interview with FashionUnited at the end of 2024, fair director Marijn Verschure emphasized the fair’s commitment to showcasing sustainable brands, and this subtle approach seems to have achieved just that.
Among the agencies representing brands in this section is Sole Agency. Xenia Oppier from the agency represents brands such as Kapten & Son, Rotholz, Faguo, and Klitmøller. “I could talk about sustainability all afternoon,” she laughs. She explains that the brands in this area each have their own unique story of sustainability, and it is her role to communicate that. There are no green leaves or other sustainability indicators at the stands. “Each retailer and buyer views sustainability differently. I have buyers who source entirely vegan products and avoid wool or leather. Others only seek brands with production in the Netherlands or Europe. The criteria vary,” she says.
Each brand will appeal to different buyers. It’s not just about sustainability levels but also the product’s design and price – key factors for most consumers.
Among the sustainable brands is family-owned Roosenstein Wolke, showcasing its wool jumpers. Fifth-generation Hessel van der Laan represents the brand at the stand. This is the brand’s first appearance at the fair. “Currently, we’re mainly stocked in sports and sailing shops due to our heritage with the fisherman’s jumper. We still see a lot of potential in the fashion sector, which is why we’re here today.” Van der Laan is pleasantly surprised and has already scheduled several appointments with new and returning clients.
As visitors continue their route, they pass several niche brands on their way to the streetwear section. On the second level, they find more classic brands like State of Art, Zuitable, A Fish Named Fred, Zilton, and Barbour.
At State of Art’s stand, FashionUnited asks about the types of clients attending the fair. Primarily, they are Dutch, as reflected in the conversations overheard throughout the exhibition floor, but a fair number of Belgians are also present. The brand has not yet seen many German buyers, despite Preview Men’s promotion in Germany.
The increased Belgian presence is noted at multiple stands. The absence of a major fashion trade show in Belgium has led buyers to look abroad. For example, buyers from E5, a popular men’s and women’s chain, are attending to find new brands to complement their offerings. “We already have several brands for women that attract customers, and we’re looking for similar brands for menswear. Preview Men is a great fair to get a sense of the market. It’s not too big, but there’s plenty to discover,” they explain. These buyers also plan to attend Pitti Uomo later in January.
The trade show calendar naturally brings attention to the newcomer event Shift, which takes place at the end of January, concurrently with Modefabriek. Awareness of the event remains limited, as many respondents were unfamiliar with it. Several brand representatives indicate they are taking a wait-and-see approach and will not showcase their collections at Shift this time but plan to visit the fair to evaluate its potential. As a new event, many are unsure what to expect. Some wonder if it will simply be “Modefabriek 2.0,” while others feel that Shift may have drawn inspiration from Preview Men.
The timing of Shift is another point of discussion. By the end of January, retailers have usually spent a significant portion of their budgets, as noted by Xenia Oppier from Sole Agency. “That’s true for the Danish trade show CIFF too. It’s more of an orientation for the next season.” The earlier the trade show, the more convenient it is for retailers, a sentiment echoed by Forét. “While being right after Christmas can be tricky, it’s early enough in the season to help people orient themselves within the local market.”
While Preview Men maintains a convivial atmosphere, there’s a deeper undercurrent to the event. The menswear industry has faced its own set of challenges. “Last year’s weather was dreadful. Winter lasted until May, then summer arrived suddenly and lasted until September. Meanwhile, we had already received our autumn/winter collections months in advance,” says The Good People from Rotterdam. While the brand had a strong year, it acknowledges a divide forming among retailers. Stores that truly understand and cater to their target audience are holding onto their customer base.
A frequent observation at the fair is the growing trend of shops specializing in specific niches. This includes not only streetwear but also clothing influenced by Japanese style or a distinctly Scandinavian aesthetic with a sustainable focus. The middle ground in retail seems to be disappearing.
The delayed impact of the pandemic is also evident. Retailers are now required to repay pandemic support loans, and many lease agreements signed during the pandemic years are coming to an end. These contracts, often for five years, force retailers to either keep their stores open or face closure. “I’ve spoken to several retailers who are closing their shops as their leases expire. For many, it’s a relief,” says Oppier.
The difference between womenswear and menswear is also clear. “There could be a war going on, and women will still buy clothes. They walk into a shop, see something they like, and only at the till do they check the price and brand. Men, however, are more brand loyal and typically only buy when they truly need something,” says one exhibitor. This difference is compounded by declining consumer sentiment, as noted by the buyers from E5. “If you watch the news, you’re not thinking: ‘Let’s go buy some clothes.’”
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