Nadege Vanhee-Cybulski debuted a striking spring collection for Hermès, featuring warm golden beiges and rich autumnal tones. This choice broke traditional seasonal norms, blending sensuality with modernity. The collection combined sheer mesh, lightweight leather, and utilitarian chic, proving that luxury can be both adventurous and refined.
Hermès’ Unique Approach
Vanhee-Cybulski’s collection stood out with its warm, earthy color palette, including gentle geometry. The garments featured a variety of squares and architectural shapes, seamlessly integrating Hermès’ signature minimalism. The wooden backdrop further enhanced the collection’s sophisticated atmosphere.
The designer emphasized refined sensuality with sheer mesh trousers that transformed with a simple zip, alongside featherweight leather jackets that felt almost weightless. These elements blended athletic ease with luxury, showcasing her talent for merging delicate fabrics with bold, structured designs. Utilitarian details, such as buckled belts and boxy shirts with pockets, grounded the collection in practicality while still embracing daring sensuality.
Vanhee-Cybulski captured the lightness of spring through luxurious reinterpretations of Hermès’ iconic silk scarves, now fashioned into airy shirtdresses and rompers. The warm neutrals evoked a sun-soaked feeling, while activewear-inspired pieces conveyed a relaxed summer vibe without sacrificing elegance.
The footwear further complemented the collection’s luxurious yet grounded aesthetic. Sleek riding boots provided a solid foundation, while clog sandals added a playful, modern touch.
Westwood’s Rebellious Spirit
Vivienne Westwood’s influence was palpable in Paris this season as Andreas Kronthaler brought a dynamic blend of rebellion, history, and glam rock to the runway. The spring collection opened with sparkling pants paired with a silky blue bodice, echoing the late designer’s love for bold contrasts—an energetic start that embodied rock ‘n’ roll chic.
A striking silver chain, dangling dramatically to the model’s knees, set a tone of unapologetic power, reflecting the punk ethos of the 1980s that remains central to the brand. Signature Westwood suits and Grecian-style draped dresses added classic shapes infused with dynamic energy and timeless rebellion, reminiscent of Kronthaler’s previous interpretations of Westwood’s wardrobe.
Clashing checks—a hallmark of Westwood’s style—enhanced the collection, providing an urban edge true to the house’s rebellious spirit.
Whimsy also made an appearance with a giant tulle headpiece, capturing an ’80s bridal punk vision. This playful chaos echoed previous seasons, where Kronthaler has embraced a mix of themes, from historical garments to modern designs. However, this collection exhibited a more controlled approach, indicating a shift toward emotional homage over mere spectacle.
Elie Saab’s Vibrant African Inspiration
Elie Saab unveiled his spring collection at the Palais de Tokyo, departing from expectations of colonial nostalgia. Instead, he presented a vibrant journey through the African savannah, infused with fresh energy and devoid of clichés. This collection was not just safari chic; it embodied luxury while maintaining sophistication.
Saab transformed safari staples into roomy linen separates and sleek crepe jumpsuits, trading traditional khaki for vivid colors like blazing red, moody elephant gray, and ochre tones. This palette brought the continent’s natural beauty to life without relying on predictable tropes, catering to today’s cosmopolitan adventurer.
Raffia was a standout feature in the collection, crafted into low-slung skirts and minidresses with subtle bubble hems. This plant fiber also adorned floor-length tulle gowns with fern embroidery, adding texture and depth that felt organically luxurious. These delicate touches elevated the collection, transcending mere thematic exploration to achieve true artistry.
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