Copenhagen Fashion Week begins today, featuring a wave of emerging talent participating in the One to Watch program for the first time. This initiative, a precursor to the CPHFW New Talent program offering mentorship and exposure, selects new brands to showcase their collections, though it doesn’t provide financial backing.
Among the fresh perspectives at this season’s event are labels focused on innovative practices such as zero-waste weaving and reconstructing menswear for women. Each brand views this as a pivotal moment to debut in front of press and buyers, aiming to navigate the complexities of launching a fashion business in today’s retail landscape.
According to Cecilie Thorsmark, CEO of CPHFW, “We are witnessing businesses adopt new methods and models due to flaws in the traditional wholesale approach. This presents opportunities but also brings new challenges.”
Vogue Business spoke with the upcoming Scandinavian labels ahead of their One to Watch debuts:
Sól Hansdóttir, known for her ‘anti-disciplinary’ approach to low-waste fashion, expressed excitement about finally entering the fashion conversation with her London-based brand. Having started with an arts grant from The Icelandic Foundation, Hansdóttir plans to transition from made-to-order to scaled production after CPHFW, focusing on accessibility and recognizability.
Sarah Brunnhuber, founder of Stem, showcased her zero-waste knitwear at CPHFW after receiving funding from several Danish sources. She emphasized her brand’s commitment to sustainable production and outlined plans to establish a small-scale production mill for her technique.
Bonnetje founders Anna Myntekær and Yoko Maja Hansen discussed their unconventional approach to reconstructed tailoring, inspired by their experiences in Paris and art school backgrounds. They aim to balance artistic integrity with commercial viability, preparing to launch their webshop and secure stockists post-event.
Supported by NGO and government funding, these brands are navigating the challenges of the fashion industry with responsible practices at their core. CPHFW remains committed to guiding and evolving its support for these designers as they forge their paths in the creative future.
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