Earlier this week, Kartik Kumra, the founder and designer of Kartik Research, was found steaming a patterned shirt in the back of his new store on New York City’s Orchard Street. As a 25-year-old based in New Delhi, Kumra juggles the demands of a growing international brand, constantly communicating with a network of independent craftspeople who produce the brand’s signature homespun-fabric trousers and intricately embroidered jackets. The day started early for him, with 120 WhatsApp messages awaiting his attention. “The first few hours of my day are hell,” Kumra quipped, reflecting the fast-paced nature of his brand’s operations.
The rapid success of Kartik Research can be traced back to its roots in 2020 when Kumra, then a sophomore at the University of Pennsylvania, started the brand as a side project during pandemic-era Zoom classes. What began as a small operation soon turned into a full-time venture as Kumra expanded his network of artisans in India. The first significant moment for Kartik Research came in August 2022 with a pop-up at Colbo, a men’s boutique located just down the block from Kumra’s new store. There, Kumra saw his garments—embroidered button-ups and flaxen linen pants—fly off the shelves within hours. “There was a line outside in the morning,” Kumra recalled with a smile. “In the first hour, we did, like, eight grand in sales. And we only had 1,800 followers on Instagram. I was like, okay, people like the clothes.”
Despite being only a few years old, Kartik Research has quickly made its name in the fashion world, propelled by Kumra’s dedication to craft and quality. In 2025, Kumra expects the company to hit $3 million in revenue, fueled by sales at renowned global retailers such as Selfridges in London, Dover Street Market in Paris, Boon The Shop in Seoul, and Up There in Melbourne. Kumra’s growing success caught the attention of the fashion industry in 2023, earning him a spot as a semifinalist for the prestigious LVMH Prize, an honor given to promising emerging designers. “I just applied through the online portal,” he said nonchalantly, recalling that he was only two months out of college when he made the application.
What sets Kartik Research apart in today’s fashion landscape is its ability to generate hype without actively chasing it. While many contemporary brands rely on social media and celebrity endorsements to build their reputation, Kumra isn’t particularly interested in those avenues. Although high-profile figures like Paul Mescal and Steph Curry have worn the brand, Kartik Research’s fanbase is more likely to be found at spots like Le Dive in New York’s Lower East Side than at a celebrity hotspot like Giorgio Baldi in Los Angeles. Kumra himself is more focused on the craft of menswear than the celebrity-driven side of the business. He started out as a Supreme reseller, and cites Belgian designer Dries Van Noten, known for incorporating Indian craft into his collections, as a key influence.
Inside his Orchard Street store, Kumra’s vision for Kartik Research comes to life. Every piece is made by hand, with careful attention to detail. The latest collection features a linen blazer adorned with chains of floral embroidery, and pleated trousers with colorful hand-beaded waistbands that beg to be shown off. “This took weeks to make,” Kumra said, pointing to a simple yet meticulously crafted white button-up shirt made from a puckered check fabric. His commitment to quality is evident in his collaboration with around 50 artisan groups across India, and he’s now working on creating a vertically integrated atelier in New Delhi to maintain greater control over production.
Kartik Research’s evolution is evident in the new collections, which represent a more ambitious step forward for the brand. Kumra’s early designs were focused on creating wearable, simple pieces with graphic details—clothing that appealed to a style-conscious, TikTok-savvy audience. But now, the brand is pushing toward a more original aesthetic, blending traditional Indian craft with a modern sensibility. The fall-winter 2025 collection is a perfect example, featuring slubby white suit jackets, capri-length silk trousers, linen military jackets, and understated prints and patterns. “It’s a new aesthetic using old techniques,” Kumra explained, noting that his inspiration comes from Indian modernism, an art movement that sought to define a distinct national aesthetic.
Looking ahead, Kumra plans to showcase Kartik Research on a global stage with a runway show during Paris Fashion Week in June. If the show is a success, Kartik Research will join a select group of independent menswear brands, including Bode, Kiko Kostadinov, and Auralee, that have carved out a place for themselves in the international fashion scene. As Kumra discussed his plans for the next collection, he excitedly pulled out a photo from his phone—a glimpse of what’s to come. It featured a gentleman he had met while traveling in Gujarat, wearing a workshirt with an antique silver necklace attached to the placket in a uniquely organic fashion. “It’s crazy, right!” Kumra exclaimed, showing off his brand’s upcoming version of the shirt. “It’s instinctive, because it’s not for social media,” he added. “This guy doesn’t have a TikTok, so it’s just like, this feels right to him.”
With his brand’s focus on authenticity and craftsmanship, Kumra’s vision for Kartik Research is clear: it’s not just about chasing trends but creating a lasting impact with beautifully crafted pieces that transcend time.
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