The founder of British cycling apparel brand Kostüme has publicly criticized Rapha’s newly unveiled women’s cargo bib shorts, calling the design “thoughtless, lazy, and formulaic” for omitting a simple solution for bathroom breaks—something he deems essential for long-distance cycling wear.
The critique, posted by Ed Bartlett on LinkedIn, sparked heated debate on the platform. Some users praised him for calling attention to a persistent problem in women’s cycling gear, while others felt his comments were an unfair and opportunistic jab at a competitor.
In response, a Rapha spokesperson defended the design, telling road.cc that their products are “tested on real rides with real people,” and emphasized that the women’s range was developed entirely by an all-female team.
Rapha’s 2025 Brevet collection, set to launch this month, is promoted as being engineered for long-distance and ultra-endurance riding. However, Bartlett took issue with what he viewed as a glaring oversight in the product design.
“I don’t normally fire shots at other brands,” Bartlett wrote, “but honestly, come on Rapha — a brand new ‘Brevet’ collection with Women’s Cargo Bibs and no simple toilet break solution?”
He added that Kostüme’s own bibs have always included a clipless and zipless pull-down feature for convenience during rides, claiming they also outperform Rapha’s bibs in both media reviews and customer satisfaction. Bartlett further criticized the collection’s gilet for lacking pockets, questioning how the products align with the needs of long-distance cyclists.
Referring to Rapha’s CEO change in August 2024, Bartlett noted that product development likely occurred before Fran Millar’s appointment, but implied the launch timing would not help Rapha’s position in a competitive market.
While his post drew support from some industry professionals — including former Wiggle design manager Stephanie Kitchen, who called out the broader industry for failing to include bathroom-friendly designs, especially in winter wear — others saw it as unnecessarily critical.
“That’s very cheap to fire at Rapha here,” commented LinkedIn user Luka Burda. “If you were a customer, I’d understand. But if you are a competitor, it is just no go.”
Others, like marketing professional Adrian Quester, pointed out that Rapha already offers detachable bibs in its range and suggested the new cargo bibs may have been designed as a more cost-effective alternative.
Rapha maintains that its products are developed from broad consumer research and rider input through its Rapha Wear Test Programme.
“Women have diverse and differing needs, preferences, and personal styles, so choice is important,” said the Rapha spokesperson. “We launched our detachable bib shorts six years ago, and offer a wide range of bottoms—strapless shorts, padded skorts, and riding trousers with or without chamois pads.”
This is not the first time Rapha has found itself the target of accusations from competitors. In February 2024, Mamnick founder Thom Barnett accused the brand of appropriating the term “yomp” for a U.S. bikepacking event, a claim Rapha denied, stating the term originated independently within their North American team.
Rapha has faced broader challenges in recent years. The company posted a £22.7 million loss for the 2023–2024 fiscal year, marking its seventh consecutive year of losses. The financial setback followed the expensive closure of two regional warehouses and a consolidation of operations in a single UK distribution center. Rapha said the move would reduce overhead in the long term by improving supply chain efficiency.
The appointment of Fran Millar, former head of Ineos Grenadiers, was seen as a strategic effort to reposition the brand. Founder Simon Mottram called Millar’s hiring “a significant milestone,” citing her deep industry knowledge and leadership record.
Meanwhile, Kostüme continues to grow. In January, the Bristol-based company successfully raised nearly £170,000 from a crowdfunding campaign, attracting 114 investors to buy shares.
Whether Bartlett’s LinkedIn comments spark change in product design—or just reflect simmering rivalry in a competitive industry—remains to be seen. But one thing is clear: the cycling clothing debate isn’t slowing down any time soon.
Related Topics
- Ralph Lauren Invites Fashion Into a World of Romantic Escape with Fall 2025 Collection
- Afrofuturism Takes Center Stage at African Fashion Week Omaha 2025
- Topshop Hints at August Comeback as UK Shoppers Anticipate High Street Revival
