The struggle to find the perfect pair of jeans is a dilemma familiar to many women. For years, shoppers have searched through racks, enduring trial after trial of poor fits and disappointment. But the issue, according to Anna Foster, founder of E.L.V. Denim, may lie in the original design. Foster points out that most jeans were initially made for men’s bodies—straight and utilitarian, created as workwear—without much regard for the curvier, more circular shapes of women’s figures. This fundamental mismatch led Foster to question the logic of the fashion industry and eventually inspired her to launch a brand that reimagines jeans for women in both fit and philosophy.
With a 25-year background as a fashion stylist, Foster sought not only to address the flaws in denim fit for women but also to confront a growing environmental concern. Each year, an estimated five billion pairs of jeans are manufactured, and many of them end up in landfills within a year of purchase. The production of jeans is also notoriously resource-intensive. For example, Levi’s reports that just one pair of its 501 jeans requires around 3,781 liters of water, equivalent to taking a five-hour shower. Recognizing the abundance of existing denim and the urgent need for sustainability, Foster founded E.L.V. Denim with a mission: to create beautifully tailored jeans for women while drastically reducing waste.
All E.L.V. Denim jeans are upcycled from previously discarded pairs sourced from vintage warehouses and the Textile Recycling Association. Rather than letting these garments end up in landfills, the brand gives them new life by restructuring them with a front seam that better suits women’s curves, enhancing the fit and silhouette. The designs also include seam allowances, allowing for alterations throughout the wearer’s lifetime. Foster proudly states that a person can purchase a pair at 18 and still wear them comfortably at 80.
The brand, whose name stands for East London Vintage, operates out of its studio in Stoke Newington. Everything produced under the E.L.V. label uses repurposed materials, from denim jeans to patchwork leather jackets and reimagined shirts. These reconstructed garments have grown into a recognizable fashion statement across East London, with locals proudly wearing their uniquely assembled pieces. At the time of a recent visit, the E.L.V. team was preparing for its first-ever pop-up location in central London. The three-month residency on Great Portland Street, launched on April 9, showcases new and classic collections and hosts events such as short film screenings, panel talks on sustainability, readings, and even champagne tastings.
Inside the studio, the atmosphere is hands-on and collaborative. A small group of women work at sewing machines on the lower floor, adjusting and stitching denim pieces. Upstairs, stacks of salvaged denim and colorful Ralph Lauren shirts evoke a playful seaside mood. Beyond its own lines, E.L.V. has partnered with platforms like The Outnet to create collections from unsold items, and even produced a capsule for Liberty London in 2024, turning discarded Liberty print silk scarves into unique shirts and skirts. Foster is also branching out into consultancy, offering guidance to other brands on how to craft sustainable collections using their leftover textiles.
Foster is determined to change the perception of upcycling, a practice she feels has suffered from its DIY associations on platforms like Etsy. In contrast to recycling, which often relies on chemical processes and produces toxic waste, she views upcycling as an opportunity for innovative and enduring design. The E.L.V. approach insists on improving upon the original item, ensuring that every piece created is better than what came before it.
Each pair of jeans begins at £275 and is made in East London. E.L.V. collaborates with five local ateliers and ensures fair wages for all involved. Foster emphasizes that the brand refuses to compromise ethics for profit. Their customers, she believes, seek more than just style—they want to invest in garments that carry purpose.
Foster compares her brand to a sanctuary for unwanted jeans, though she admits to having a preference for certain types. Wrangler jeans, she claims, generally offer better material than Levi’s. Still, the team at E.L.V. tends to disregard brand labels, focusing instead on fabric quality. One material that draws Foster’s ire is stretch denim. She criticizes it not only for losing its shape quickly but also for its environmental consequences. Stretch denim, which includes elastane—a plastic—cannot be recycled and poses serious challenges for upcycling.
Many people, Foster notes, turn to stretch denim out of frustration with rigid styles that seem ill-suited to their body types. She insists this is a misconception. E.L.V. has successfully dressed women of various sizes, including those who wear size 14 and above, in rigid denim that flatters and fits comfortably. One of the most popular designs among staff is The Freya, a wide-legged flare that sits on the hips, suiting a range of body shapes.
Foster often hears comparisons between her jeans and the magical pair from the film The Sisterhood of the Traveling Pants, where one pair of jeans mysteriously fits four friends of different sizes. It’s a parallel she embraces with humor and pride. Though she jokes about trying to get a pair to actress Blake Lively, the message is clear: good jeans should transcend trends and fit beautifully regardless of size.
While the brand occasionally introduces trend-conscious pieces, such as ruffled jeans with scrunchie-style panels, its core philosophy remains rooted in timeless style. Foster encourages customers to build their wardrobe around dependable staples like well-made jeans, using other garments to experiment with trends. To her, jeans should be the grounding element in any outfit—a constant amid changing fashions.
Despite her strong convictions on the ethics of denim production, Foster adopts a laid-back approach to personal style. Whether bootcut or skinny, she believes the most important thing is to wear what makes you feel good. In that spirit, E.L.V. Denim champions not just sustainable fashion but also a more inclusive and intuitive way of dressing—one that celebrates individuality and honors the environment.
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