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Inside the Obsessive World of a Sopranos Style Sleuth

by Demos

Gabriel Marfisi, a 41-year-old fashion designer living in Corsica, has developed a deep fascination with the wardrobes featured on The Sopranos. Like many fans, he spends his free time watching the legendary HBO series, but his interest goes far beyond the storyline. Marfisi is the man behind the Instagram account @TonySopranoStyle, where he documents and analyzes the outfits worn by the show’s characters. He studies the clothing details frame by frame and searches tirelessly across eBay and Depop to find exact or similar garments worn by Tony Soprano and his crew. His Instagram has drawn more than 80,000 followers—many of whom share his passion for the show’s unique early 2000s fashion sense, from flashy bowling shirts to subtle vintage Italian knits.

While David Chase, the show’s creator, declined to comment on whether Tony Soprano chose his own wardrobe or relied on his wife Carmela, Marfisi has formed his own opinion through hours of research. He believes that although Tony likely did some shopping himself, many of his clothes could plausibly have been picked out by Carmela during her own department store runs. Most of the brands worn on the show, such as Alan Stuart or Alfani, were widely available in major retailers at the time, making this theory all the more convincing.

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Marfisi’s journey into Sopranos-style obsession began when he started rewatching the series in 2015 or 2016. Although he had always been interested in menswear—even as a child—the distinctive, often gaudy shirts worn by Tony Soprano caught his eye. Already a fan of vintage Italian knits reminiscent of 1960s style, Marfisi found himself drawn to Tony’s bold fashion choices. Just a few episodes into the series, he began hunting down these garments himself.

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The first item he successfully tracked down was an Alan Stuart polo shirt, a brand previously mentioned by Julia Polcsa, the show’s costume designer. He found the exact shirt Tony wore, albeit in a long-sleeve variation, and discovered that many brands of the time reused patterns across different styles. That shirt marked the beginning of an extensive and ever-growing collection. Marfisi now owns about 70 pieces identical to those worn by Tony alone, and his collection has outgrown his available storage space.

Among the most prized items in his wardrobe are pieces from iconic episodes like “Funhouse” in season two. Marfisi owns both the jacket and the shirt Tony wore during the scene where he confronts Sal Bonpensiero on a boat. He also possesses the striking cardigan worn by Paulie Gaultieri in the same scene—a garment adorned with Greco-style buttons reminiscent of Versace’s lion head motif. A friend of his holds the Alan Stuart polo shirt that Silvio Dante wore beneath a leather blazer during that episode. However, the track jacket worn by Sal remains elusive; Marfisi has a vague idea of what it might be but hasn’t been able to identify or obtain it yet.

Another fan-favorite item is the tan leather jacket Paulie wears in the “Pine Barrens” episode. While Marfisi doesn’t own that exact version, he does have the same jacket in cream. It’s made by Alfani, a brand once sold at Macy’s. The original screen-worn jacket fetched $1,290 at auction, but Marfisi acquired his for about $100, a testament to his skill at bargain-hunting rare pieces.

Over time, Marfisi has helped foster a niche community of Sopranos style collectors. Although some fans were already chasing down these garments before his page launched, the visibility and knowledge he’s shared have strengthened the community and allowed others to find pieces they might have otherwise missed. Still, Marfisi estimates that there are only about a dozen people who collect seriously at his level.

What makes these vintage pieces different from today’s menswear is not just the style, but also the quality of materials. Many of the shirts worn on the show are made from 100% silk—an increasingly rare and costly choice in contemporary fashion. The fit, too, has changed: bowling shirts from that era have oversized sleeves that fall below the elbow, while modern menswear often opts for tighter, more fitted sleeves.

Despite the time and effort involved in curating his collection, most of the items cost relatively little. On average, Marfisi says he pays around $40 per piece. However, now that his page has gained popularity, sellers have become more aware of the value of these clothes and prices have begun to rise. In some cases, poor-quality reproductions of Tony’s garments have begun to circulate, which Marfisi views with disappointment.

Interestingly, his reputation as a fashion sleuth has drawn attention from celebrities. On Valentine’s Day, model Elsie Hewitt messaged him on Instagram asking for help locating a robe Tony wore in season one. Though Marfisi didn’t have the item, he was able to identify the brand for her. At the time, he didn’t know Hewitt was dating comedian Pete Davidson, who was later spotted on a beach wearing a vintage Sopranos baseball jersey—possibly the gift she was hoping to find.

One item in high demand is the Tabasco polo Tony wore in season five. This short-sleeve black shirt features dancing Tabasco bottles and has become a favorite among fans. Every time Marfisi locates one, multiple people request their own version. Yet he has noticed a flood of inferior reproductions entering the market, which he feels diminishes the charm of tracking down authentic pieces.

Though he used to work for other fashion companies, Marfisi is now channeling his passion into his own brand, Potenza Uomo, which will specialize in Italian knits. His professional experience and deep appreciation for classic menswear clearly influence both his collecting and his designs. When asked how many times he has watched The Sopranos, he admits he’s lost count, especially since he frequently revisits specific scenes for research and content creation.

Marfisi believes that Johnny Sack had the best style among the show’s made men, drawing parallels to the real-life mob boss John Gotti. He also admires Tony’s father, Johnny Boy Soprano, whose late-1960s aesthetic aligns with Marfisi’s personal taste. While many fans have asked him to expand his focus to include female characters like Adriana La Cerva, he acknowledges that collecting women’s luxury fashion is more difficult due to high costs and less availability. Still, some have expressed strong interest, telling him they’d buy everything if he were to find it.

Through his unique blend of fashion expertise and television obsession, Gabriel Marfisi has carved out a niche all his own—proving that style doesn’t die, especially when it’s tied to one of the most iconic TV series of all time.

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