At this season’s fashion week, the typical backstage setting, where makeup compacts are usually spotted, took a surprising turn when Sarah Burton, the creative director at Givenchy, showcased her debut collection featuring a unique twist. Burton brought everyday items, like makeup compacts, to the forefront, crafting a powder-pink minidress and matching bag made from upcycled compacts. The unexpected incorporation of these beauty tools served as a spotlight on the often-overlooked effort that women put into their appearances.
This groundbreaking dress was part of a broader collection that celebrated femininity in a refreshingly contemporary manner. Burton emphasized in her show notes, “I want to address everything about modern women—strength, vulnerability, emotional intelligence, feeling powerful or very sexy. All of it.” The collection featured an assortment of styles, from a menswear-inspired blazer with a cinched waist and mini hemline to playful tutu skirts that evoked a sense of girlishness. Additionally, the show stood out for featuring a diverse range of women, showcasing not just the typical sample-size models but also women of different ages and body types.
Despite the strides made in representation, women still hold a relatively small share of power in the fashion industry’s leadership roles. Burton, however, stands out as one of the few female creative directors in the luxury fashion world. In an environment that continues to wrestle with gender expression, many collections this season leaned into polarized views of femininity and masculinity, rather than challenging the gender binary. This tendency towards hyper-traditionalism is reflective of a broader cultural shift, influenced by movements like bimbocore and a growing conservatism in various aspects of society.
However, designers like Miuccia Prada have shown that embracing traditional femininity in design doesn’t necessarily equate to endorsing outdated gender norms. With both her Prada and Miu Miu collections, Prada upended conventional feminine codes. For Prada, models sported intentionally mussed hair, while she and co-creative director Raf Simons crafted outfits that referenced retro ideas of femininity. Even the “put-together” looks carried an underlying sense of discord, with bourgeois house dresses sporting off-kilter floral prints and abstract bows, pushing the boundaries of traditional femininity.
At Miu Miu, Prada’s subversive approach continued with the introduction of the bullet bra, an iconic symbol of 1950s femininity re-imagined in a modern, awkwardly alluring way. The collection sparked conversation on how women’s bodies are scrutinized, and how fashion can be a tool for reshaping and redefining these perceptions.
Other designers also presented innovative takes on femininity in 2025. Chemena Kamali at Chloé embraced the multi-dimensional nature of womanhood, infusing her collection with boho romanticism. Ruffles and lace evoked the liberating energy of the 1970s, making the clothes feel both nostalgic and free-spirited.
Stella McCartney, in turn, explored the juxtaposition of work and play in her “laptop to lap dance” concept, which introduced a provocative mix of male and female pole dancers alongside models dressed in sharp, empowering blazers. The collection aimed to represent the modern woman at every stage of her life, offering a “day-to-night” wardrobe that celebrates her power and versatility.
These diverse collections highlight the evolving landscape of fashion and gender, offering a glimpse into the complex experience of being a woman in 2025, and the ways designers are interpreting that experience in their work.
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